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Routes in Lone Eagle Peak

East Face Center T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mohling Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sleep-In Block T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solo Flight T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Sound of Music (North Face Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1050 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,952 total, 20/month
Shared By: SashaSorkin on Oct 18, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Moshnikov Anatoly
Moshnikov Ivan
Mountain Guides, CET Neva, St. Petersburg, Russia

North Face – direct variant.
09/09/09 From Crater Lake - ~ vertical 1050 ft.

P1. 5.4. Climb first pitch of the Classic North face route (75 ft) to the bench with the trees.

P2. Scramble right and up on the ramp with trees for about 100 ft m and then climb up under small roof. (Just before the overhang we found remains of the repel station).

P3. 5.10. Crux. Make a delicate move into the crack under the roof and work over the overhang.

P4 and 5. Climb straight up (P4) and another pitch (P5) up and left (easy climbing, 5.5-5.6) to the large ledge below the summit bastion.

P6. Join with the crux pitch of the classic route (P5, 170 ft, 5.7).

P7. Continue on the classic route 100 ft to the summit.

Time from Crater Lake to summit - 5.5 hrs.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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