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Routes in Lone Eagle Peak

East Face Center T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mohling Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sleep-In Block T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solo Flight T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Sound of Music (North Face Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Franz Mohling
Page Views: 13,496 total, 68/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Sep 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This sustained excursion (lots of 4th and easy 5th class) starts on the summit of Lone Eagle Peak (reached either via the North Face Route or Solo Flight) and traverses south along a spectacular ridge to the seldom-visited summit of Iriquois (12,799).

From the summit of Lone Eagle follow the Solo Flight route south to the one point at which it drops over a notch onto the west side of the ridge. Descend 100 feet west down a gully and continue up and south on a grassy, diagonalling bench below the ridgeline.

Stay on the west side of the ridge and summit "Limbo," a 12,420 spire two-thirds of the way along the traverse, via its north face. Descend Limbo to a notch below the north face of Iriquois (I flipped over to the east side of the ridge to do this; some parties may want to rappel).

Climb Iriquois as best you can. The terrain is easier and more broken up on the west side of the north face.

This traverse has numerous easy fifth-class sections and plenty of options for either increasing or decreasing the difficulty. It's possible to escape east toward Triangle Lake in a couple of spots should weather move in, but once on Iriquois itself you're fairly committed.

If you're camped at Crater Lake you can either reverse the traverse until it's possible to descend to Crater Lake or go west from Iriquois' summit over Hopi and down Achonee's southeast gully. Alternately, continue east along another tricky, jagged ridge to the summit of Apache and make your way back east toward Brainard Lake as best you can. I continued over Navajo and down Niwot Ridge for full flavor . . .

Protection

If you're breaking this up into pitches then you may never get there . . . A light rack and a small-diameter 60-meter rope should be sufficient.

Photos



Profile shot of Lone Eagle, "Limbo", and "Iroquis" from the northeast on Pawnee Peak. Oct 2, 2016
From the rap station, continue turning the corner onto the N side of the ridge. Look for the ledge below. Very exposed 2nd class leading to a 4th class downclimb via a chimney. No need to regain.



Looking back at the rap. Weaknesses on the right/N side can be DCed at 4th.

Jul 28, 2015
Aaron Ramras  
5.4
Nice remote ridge line. For clarification, most of the descent off of Limbo toward Iriquois is done on the west side of the ridge (2nd and 3rd class). The final drop to the low point between the two peaks has rap slings. We did not have a rope, so we backtracked up the ridge about 200ft and found some steep low 5th class downclimbing leading down to a ledge system on the east side of the ridge which gains the low notch below the rappel. Jul 25, 2015
Avoid the white gully ascending to a notch right of Iriquois. Instead, scramble just above and left of the gully on relatively more solid terrain. Sep 7, 2014
Rogerlarock
Nedsterdam, Colorado
Rogerlarock   Nedsterdam, Colorado
I've gotta say that if you go up there expecting 5.2 then you may be in for a surprise. Quite a bit harder in my opinion. (I am old and weak....) Jul 16, 2010
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Is it possible to do the traverse by ascending Fare Glacier over to Iriquois to the ridge between Iriquois to the summit of Lone Eagle? May 23, 2005
Scott Upton  
 
I just realized my original comment included only a 1-star rating... This was an error. It's a greatroute, but no Matthes Crest, so I give it 2 out of 3. Sep 6, 2004
Scott Upton  
 
Photos and a full description of a recent trip on this route (9/2/2004) can be found here: couloir.org/2004_4_0.php . Sep 3, 2004
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Mohling is on the West and Solo Flight traverses the East? Correct?

Nice tricam placements on the 2d ridge from the summet of Lone Eagle on the Mohling side. Jul 26, 2004