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Routes in Maroon Bells

Bell Cord Couloir Steep Snow
Maroon Ridge T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Moron's Bells Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Northeast Ridge T
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Elevation: 14,156 ft
GPS: 39.071, -106.989 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,169 total · 114/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Oct 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Guidebooks will say that the Maroon Bells have some of the loosest rock in Colorado. On the standard route up South Maroon, this may be true, but there are better routes and easier ways to the summits of these peaks. These crown jewels of Aspen host a number of fine snow climbs and a spectacular ridge traverse with some of the finest views in Colorado. Unfortunately, you have to go down at some point, and the descent routes aren't overly enjoyable. Either descend the standard route off South Maroon, or follow the cairns of the North Ridge/North Face Route off North Maroon Peak to get back to Crater Lake and the trailhead.

Getting There

From Leadville, drive south and pick up Hwy 82 to Aspen. Head through town to the roundabout. Follow the Maroon Bells Rd. up to the ranger station, pay your $10 parking fee and head up to the trailhead. Hike about 1.5 miles to Crater Lake, then follow the appropriate trail to your route.

We got up to Aspen the afternoon before, realized camping in the park is reserved, bought our parking permit, then drove out and over one drainage to the Conundrum Hot Springs trailhead to camp for the night. Call ahead (weeks or months???) to the USFS in Aspen to reserve a camp site in the summer season.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Maroon Bells

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Steep Snow
Bell Cord Couloir
Snow, Alpine
Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Maroon Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Moron's Bells Traverse
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bell Cord Couloir
Steep Snow Snow, Alpine
Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Maroon Ridge
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, Alpine
Moron's Bells Traverse
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad, Alpine
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Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
The east chute on South Maroon make a nice snow climb and ski descent, (left most chute in the picture above); although we did not summit South Maroon from this route, due to the quickly softening snow on this east facing route. I would recommend forgoeing the summit on this route in favor of a ski descent in a heart beat.You can easily get 3,000 feet of skiing in on this route, but beware the garbage dump. Nov 7, 2002
Bell Cord - great climb with some tricky route finding from the upper col. Do this route early as it becomes a shooting gallery after the sun hits the top. We left the trailhead at 10 pm and summited just after sunrise. Dec 23, 2003
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
I did the North Face in the 70s. Basically a scramble up very large, very loose rocks. There were times when I was standing on things the size of a freight train car that were teetering back and forth. Do wear a brain bucket, but probably wouldn't help for most of the rocks if they have more than a 5 ft start. Jul 6, 2007
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
These peaks are typically accessed from the Maroon Creek Road. During the summer weekends, this road is closed to private vehicles from 9am-5pm. Buses shuttle tourists up the road for $6 a head during this time. Additionally, from 7am - 9am, there is a $10 fee for each vehicle.

So, if you want to climb one of these peaks, plan your departure time so that you will reach the parking lot prior to 7am, to avoid paying any fees. Aug 4, 2009

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