Type: Boulder, Alpine, 12 ft (4 m)
FA: Jim Hurst?
Page Views: 14,558 total · 106/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on May 26, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Fragile Alpine Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The crux is making the long reach for the good slot/pocket/crimp jug (crug). Landing is fair since the boulder overhangs a small slab. Start on a left-facing jug at the center of the wall, move slightly left.

This problem was established earlier by Jim Hurst, Jim Belcer, and Dean Potter as "In Your Face" due to a large block at the top of the route that would crush your face. After it was removed the name was changed to "Standard Overhang." History noted. I have chosen to keep the name The Kind to aid in identifying the route since virtually everyone calls this the Kind.

Location

300 yards downhill from Emerald Lake, above the wash (before a large hill climbs up on the edge of the valley of Emerald Lake) is a cluster of boulders. If you are in the center of this area, you will see the Kind in front of you, the Kind Traverse(s) (V11) move left from the Kind. Turn around and there is a roofy V6, and to the right of this is a roofy V9 (that rarely gets done). Downclimb the V0 at the far rightside of the boulder to get down or just walk off the backside.

Bonus Climbing:
There is a V7 sit that uses a left facing sidepull and a right hand crimp. Hard move to a bad left hand pinch and then a tension move to a right hand side pull. Fire up to a good left hand sidepull on the Kind and finish the Kind.

Another V7 (or 8?) starts on the jug to the kind and takes a right hand gaston with a good thumb catch left heelhook and make a hard move to a decent left hand crimp. Reach up to a good crimp with the right, match, then traverse right to finish the kind. This is called Mr. Wimpy.

To my knowledge the direct finish has yet to be completed (risking a tree in your back), but beware I've broken dinner plate size holds off this climb.

Protection

2 pads and spotter.

Photos