Avg: 3.8 from 305
votes
Access Issue: Fragile Alpine Area
Details
Access Issue: Closures
Details
The crux is making the long reach for the good slot/pocket/crimp jug (crug). Landing is fair since the boulder overhangs a small slab. Start on a left-facing jug at the center of the wall, move slightly left.
This problem was established earlier by Jim Hurst, Jim Belcer, and Dean Potter as "In Your Face" due to a large block at the top of the route that would crush your face. After it was removed the name was changed to "Standard Overhang." History noted. I have chosen to keep the name The Kind to aid in identifying the route since virtually everyone calls this the Kind.
300 yards downhill from Emerald Lake, above the wash (before a large hill climbs up on the edge of the valley of Emerald Lake) is a cluster of boulders. If you are in the center of this area, you will see the Kind in front of you, the Kind Traverse(s) (V11) move left from the Kind. Turn around and there is a roofy V6, and to the right of this is a roofy V9 (that rarely gets done). Downclimb the V0 at the far rightside of the boulder to get down or just walk off the backside.
Bonus Climbing:
There is a V7 sit that uses a left facing sidepull and a right hand crimp. Hard move to a bad left hand pinch and then a tension move to a right hand side pull. Fire up to a good left hand sidepull on the Kind and finish the Kind.
Another V7 (or 8?) starts on the jug to the kind and takes a right hand gaston with a good thumb catch left heelhook and make a hard move to a decent left hand crimp. Reach up to a good crimp with the right, match, then traverse right to finish the kind. This is called Mr. Wimpy.
To my knowledge the direct finish has yet to be completed (risking a tree in your back), but beware I've broken dinner plate size holds off this climb.
2 pads and spotter.
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Estes Park, CO
Denver
Estes Park, CO
This problem was established in the summer of '92 or '93 by Jim Hurst. He called it "In Your Face" because there was a good-sized block that threatened to dislodge into your face while you were yarding on it. The following summer Jim Belcer and Dean Potter, along with Hurst, repeated the problem, and succeeded in pulling the block off. Since the "In Your Face" name no longer made sense, the three of them agreed to call it the "Standard Overhang". That same summer they started to work on what would become the Kind Traverse the NEXT summer. But as far as I am told from the from the guys that were climbing here in the EARLY '90s, this problem was never called The Kine or The Kind. I suggest changing the name to the Standard Overhang. Oct 24, 2009
Denver
Estes Park, CO
And what does "aka (also known as) Slander" mean? Oct 28, 2009
Boulder Colorado
Broomfield, CO
Denver
Thanks for the history lesson. Be glad to start a discussion forum (note guideline #3 on this here database), and let you know my issues with the name. Word. Oct 28, 2009
Estes Park, CO
Are people still saying "word"? Oct 29, 2009
Broomfield, CO
A related example is The Monkey Traverse, which was known for 20 years as The Long Traverse before Benningfield's guide changed that. However, in that case, the FAist was unknown, nobody really cared and the name stuck.
"The Kind" from The Kind Traverse (NOT "The Kine") has been known by that name by everyone I know for ~10 years. Boulderers from all over the world know it by that name. If Jim Hurst, Jim Belcer and Dean Potter decided on name "The Standard Overhang" ... SO BE IT. However, I would prefer that Jim Hurst himself weigh in on the issue if "The Kind" is no longer listed as an AKA.
My 2 cents, I'm out on this issue. Oct 29, 2009
Denver
My "issues" with the route impact the way that I choose to name the route. While I'm more than glad to have a discussion of them (with all tangents are pseudo-questions that delve into the names of routes and what the should be called--I admit a philosophical side project for me), I've cited my reasons for naming the route the way it is. I have also received a few emails from administrators that offer no consensus on the issue. If MP would like to have an official stance, than by all means I would comply, but as long as route information is posted by individuals I think they should do so as they see fit while taking into consideration the views of others. I have done this and don't see a need to push the issue further. Oct 29, 2009
Lyons, CO
"I've cited my reasons for naming the route the way it is"
"route information is posted by individuals I think they should do so as they see fit while taking into consideration the views of others."
T,
1. You didn't name the route...you entered it into a database, and incorrectly too I might add.
2. Jason was not offering his "view" on the matter; he was correcting you and informing us.
I find it interesting that the route heading went from: The Kine, to The Kind aka Standard Overhang, to The Kind.
Your intentions to help people find the problem may be legit, but it is not respecting the origins and educating the people. It seems like you are trying to win a petty power struggle, and how do you feel about the misnamed boulder problems in Horan's guide?
IMO, the route should be headlined in this database: Standard Overhang aka The Kind. Oct 29, 2009
Estes Park, CO
Thanks Roy, for showing me that not ALL climbers have gone completely nuts. Maybe it's just the pebblers.... Oct 31, 2009
Denver
I would like to point out that "I" did not name the problem. The consensus of the community that boulders in the park knows this problem as The Kind.
In respect to Horan's guide, he has nothing to do with the communities that have been climbing up there, and so my opinion is that HE named the climbs and that privilege does not belong to him, it does not belong to me, it belongs to the community. Nov 9, 2009
The original name should have its place noted, I agree with this. Nevertheless, I have never heard this climb called anything but The Kind, to help other climbers seeking this climb, I feel it is important to use the most well known name.
If I were climbing in Emerald lake and a fellow climber asked me, "Where the standard overhang is?" Until recently I would not be able to help them locate this rock climb. However, if a climber asked me "Where is The Kind?" I could help them locate this climb in a heart beat.
In short respect the past, however, current names, or well known names of climbs allows us all to communicate in a clearer fashion. Nov 22, 2009
Lyons, CO
When I first got on this problem 10 years ago, it was described/named as Standard Overhang to me. Obviously there are some different communities at play here. I personally will choose to respect the pioneers of the area, remember the history and will continue to know it as "Standard Overhang". But, since I dont boulder up there anymore and since the "royal we" of "the community that boulders in the park" needs to know this as the Kind, I digress.
Have fun. Nov 22, 2009
Anyway this problem is the shiznit, but I am so confused now. I have to keep a log of my sendz to keep my sponsors happy, Bro. You know it is, yo. You with me on dat? So what do I call this dope ass problem?
Thanks tcamillieri for taking the time posting all these pebbles up there and keeping us up to date with the factz, bro!!! Most people on here just want to rant it seems, but I appreciate that Shit, YO!!!! Some good steeze, homie!! It's easy to get lost up there and walk by these classic problems, and you know what else is whack is sometimes I think I did the problem, but I find out later I was on the wrong side of the pebble or maybe even the wrong pebble all together. But your efforts to keep me on the right lines have helped me tick my prodges, bro!!!
Thanks again, but can you tell me what to call this in my log book, Bring some rest to the debate of this thread, too, I have to get my resume in soon to me sponsors, YO!!!
Peace out Yo, Word!!!!! Jun 27, 2010
Denver
Estes Park, CO
Eldorado Springs, CO
Estes Park, CO
Denver, CO
San Fracisco, CA
Reno, NV
Denver, CO
New York
This boulder is located at exactly at 40.3094586,-105.6646394. Jun 10, 2022
Estes Park CO
MN
Lafayette, CO