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Routes in Emerald Lake

Type: Boulder, Alpine, 20 ft
FA: Ian Glass
Page Views: 1,674 total, 16/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Jun 20, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Fragile Alpine Area Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This problem starts as for The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed). However, move left along the series of crimps that ultimately deposit you into a large (jug) crack. There are several ways of topping it out that all tick in at the same difficulty.

It gets two stars because of its low-ball and ass-dragging nature.

Two cruxes:
The first crux: is getting the "pocket." It is about three moves in. There are two ways of doing it. Either shuffle your hands to negotiate a high heel hook, or do a tricky bicycle.

The second crux: There are three ways of doing this. After matching the right-facing gaston, hit the low jug. Shuffle your feet down to either to a big dynamic move to a sloper with a crimp in the back or heel hook the jug by your left hand.

Variations: Super Kind (V12) does a traverse into The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed). You can get a knee bar at the beginning of The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed). Low Kind (V10) skip the second crux by doing the ultimate ass dragger along the crimps that the Kind Traverse uses as feet (yes, this is easier). A V8 starts at the jug half way through the Kind Traverse.

Protection

Spotter (especially at the last crux since you can take an awkward roll into a tree) and pad. Potentially a strap a spotter can use to drag the pad beneath the climber.

Photos

skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Angie Payne made the first female ascent during the 2005 or 2006 season. Feb 7, 2014
Bronson
Estes Park, CO
Bronson   Estes Park, CO
Jason is correct, Ian Glas got the FA, then Jim Belcer. May 21, 2011
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I'm pretty sure this is a Jim Belcer problem.

Edited 7-8-09: Talked to Jim today; I guess Ian Glass did the first ascent, Belcer got the 2nd. Jul 7, 2009
I believe Herm did the FA. Jul 7, 2009