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Tipping Point 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Smith, Spring 2015
Page Views: 2,298
Submitted By: Matt Levine on May 18, 2015  with updates from Daniel Kaye

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Looking out from the p1 anchors

Description 

This is a wonderful new line that takes you a good distance from the ground. The position and view from the second pitch is great. I believe this will end up being a very popular route. If you're looking for an easier route to hone your multi-pitch skills this is a very good choice. Just stay safe out there.

Start below the first bolt and make a somewhat thoughtful move to get yourself situated on the route. A stick clip is not a bad idea as a slip here could be a tumble down a hill if you fell wrong. From here the climbing is enjoyable and well protected. Fun slab climbing that felt at times like an easier B-B-Buttress.

The second pitch starts with more fun slab climbing and leads to a really excellent flake. Look to your left and enjoy the view! Finish up a short steep crux on good holds. This pitch was a blast.

Two raps back to the ground.

Location 

Tipping Point is located at the far right side of Main Cliff Right. As you approach from the parking lot turn right past Get a Grip and turn the corner and walk up the steps toward Orange Crush just a short ways. You're there.

Protection 

Bolted anchors. You will need a good amount of draws for the first pitch as it was fairly long. I will edit this when I get an exact count for the bolts.

60M Rope required. The first pitch is a FULL 30 meters.

Re' Bolts: From Dan Kaye the following was received: Counted the bolts today - I believe its 12 bolts + a 2-bolt anchor for P1, and 7 bolts (the last of which is kinda just a directional) and a 2-bolt anchor for P2. (added by RHall, NH Admin. )


Photos of Tipping Point Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber maybe more than halfway up Tipping Point, ...
Climber maybe more than halfway up Tipping Point, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down at KLS from top of second pitch
looking down at KLS from top of second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the p1 anchors
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the p1 anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down from first set of anchors
looking down from first set of anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: about half way up the first pitch
about half way up the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Vito on the first pitch
Vito on the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Tipping Point.
BETA PHOTO: Start of Tipping Point.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryan on the second pitch slab right before the he...
BETA PHOTO: Bryan on the second pitch slab right before the he...

Comments on Tipping Point Add Comment
Show which comments
By jay davis
From: New Hampshire
May 19, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a really enjoyable climb. The second pitch is great - it's relatively short but has a fun slab section that brings you to the cruxy steep moves that guard the anchors.
By Jay LeSage
From: Sandown, NH
May 19, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

60M Rope Required. The first pitch is a FULL 30 meters. Great fun Moderate
By ward smith
May 20, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

First pitch is only 5.6 if you pull on the first bolt. Great route either way.
By Jay LeSage
From: Sandown, NH
May 22, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I find that it is best to do the second pitch like a regular sport climb. Clip the anchor and lower back to the 1st pitch anchor. Then have the second toprope or lead it themselves... Convenient, Easy and Saves you from having to do a second rappel.
By S. Neoh
Jun 7, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

P1 - 12 draws enroute and two more or two slings for the anchor.
Almost everyone should be able to put a draw into the first glue in. I am 5'5" and I was able to do it comfortably. First pitch felt like 5.7 to me even with the low crux. I really enjoyed the first very well protected pitch. Second pitch has great contrast, a slabby move or two that require balance and finesse while the headwall crux requires some power and oomph. P2 felt challenging and every bit of 5.9 to me.
A great addition to the crag. Thanks for all the bolts and amazing amount of cleaning. I am happy to report that P2 anchor still have Dave's bines as of today.
Be careful rapping P1. I used my 70m and there was not that much rope on the ground when I touched down. Consider tying knots if you use a shorter rope.
By Ming
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The second pitch is stellar - a few slab moves to a headwall and a pretty cool pull over the lip of the headwall. Did I spot some blueberry patches at the tree above the 1st pitch anchors? That bumps the climb another star for me during blueberry season :)

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