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Crowd Pleaser 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 9,700
Submitted By: Matt Levine on May 21, 2015

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Giving a wave from the top of pitch 1

Description 

This is another excellent new two-pitch moderate at the right side of Main Cliff.

The first pitch has great face climbing on positive holds. The second pitch is much more low-angled and leads to a fantastic and exciting arete with some serious exposure for the grade. Look out left and enjoy the view!

Crowd Pleaser should end up being quite, well, the crowd pleaser.

NOTE: There are two sets of anchors atop the first pitch. The first set of anchors that you come to provides a perfect straight line if you wish to just do the first pitch and have followers top rope it. If you wish to do both pitches, however, place a long draw on the anchor to protect the move and step up and right to a second set of anchors. This will leave you on a much more comfortable ledge and in a much better position for the 2nd pitch.

Location 

Crowd Pleaser is located on the right side of Main Cliff. Look for a dark streak of rock with glue-in bolts in a left-facing corner. It is to the right of Charity Case, White Toad, and Toady Dreams but to the left of the harder routes in the cave area.

Protection 

Bolted Anchors. "No-Gate" Pig-Tail style anchors on the top of the 2nd pitch.

Roughly 8 bolts on each pitch.

60 METER ROPE REQUIRED

2 single-rope raps to the ground


Photos of Crowd Pleaser Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: KLs working her way up
KLs working her way up
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing the rocks
climbing the rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: Making it to the top of pitch 1
Making it to the top of pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Exposure on pitch 2
Exposure on pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike making his clip.
Mike making his clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam doin it
Adam doin it
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up on the arete of the 2nd pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up on the arete of the 2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: A true dead vertical that's 5.7 at Rumney?  Yes in...
A true dead vertical that's 5.7 at Rumney? Yes in...
Rock Climbing Photo: As promised.... Crowd Pleaser :)  Thanks Dave!
As promised.... Crowd Pleaser :) Thanks Dave!
Rock Climbing Photo: Not the best picture but look for this start. It i...
BETA PHOTO: Not the best picture but look for this start. It i...

Comments on Crowd Pleaser Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2017
By ward smith
May 25, 2015

Get on it now before the new guide comes out because it will have a line on it forever.
By David Quinn
May 27, 2015

Thanks for posting the route Matt! You did a great job on the description! One comment I would like to add is that someone has already taken the "fixed" carabiners that I left on the anchors, at least one was taken from the new route "Tipping Point" as well. When you encounter carabiners at an anchor on a route in Rumney, they ARE NOT "booty". In this case they were my carabiners which I paid for and temporarily donated to the route until permanent hardware can be placed! New routes cost, in this case, hundreds of dollars to put up, all of which comes from the pocket of the developer, so when climbers come along and steal the hardware, either intentionally or unintentionally it is somewhat disheartening. Please do not take ANY hardware from anchors that you did not place.
Thank you and enjoy!
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
May 27, 2015

That's a shame about the biners, Dave. Thanks again, I really enjoyed this one.
By S. Neoh
Jun 7, 2015
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Both pitches are quite enjoyable. And the view from the top! NICE.
Solid 2.5 stars from me. And AMAZINGLY clean and solid for such a new route. Take a bow, Dave. Well done and THANK YOU.
The pig-tail, no-gate anchors look a little funny but totally works. First time for me.
The finish is a little confusing as the finish for Tipping Point comes in on the right. For this route, stay on the left slabby arête, and much larger footholds.
By Ming
Jun 15, 2015

Linked both pitches and belayed from the top of the 2nd pitch. It was around 150-160 feet and had to skip a few bolts on the 2nd pitch to keep the rope drag manageable (apline draws would've helped alot there). First pitch is one of the best 5.7s at Rumney - it just brings a smile to my face as I was climbing it and the 2nd pitch clocked in at 5.6 or so but the position is amazing - the arete is really airy and fun.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Jun 15, 2015

Ming, did you use a 70? I was thinking about doing that myself when I was on it again on Saturday.
By Ming
Jun 15, 2015

Yep I used an 70. You can easily use a 60 also if you belay from the top. The 70 I need to do 2 raps. The rope was not close to the ground from the top anchors to do it in one rap - from the looks of it I doubt an 80 will get you down in one rap.
By Travis Dustin
From: Hollis, NH
Jul 11, 2015

Fun climb!!! I really enjoyed the top half of the 2nd pitch.
By Mark NH
From: 03053
Jul 17, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Thanks Dave for an awesome route. Or I should say first pitch. It was baking up on the second so we rapped back down and will certainly be back to do it on a cooler or cloudy day! The second looks like great fun!

And agreed the first pitch is a great pitch at 5.7.

What amazes me is that folks (myself included) have been walking by this the last 30 plus years!
By S. Neoh
Jul 31, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

We tried to lower the leader all the way to the ground after he linked both pitches to the top. Alas, was not able to make it with a 70 m rope; about 30 feet short. Pulling the rope after (with all the drag) was much harder than climbing the route itself!
By Punter Brewster
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jul 5, 2017

P1 was ok, but P2 was very dirty and crumbly. Perhaps it will clean up with more traffic.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Aug 3, 2017

P1 goes great on gear. Make sure you have BD 0.2 and 0.3 cams/Blue and Yellow metolius mastercams or equivalent.

Second pitch is even better than the first, make sure you do it if it's dry.

Main Cliff Right is a horrible place to be in spring when the ice above you is still melting and falling down in deadly chunks. Stay away.

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