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5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 23 ● Dreadlock Holiday May 23, 2026 · TR. Greg set this up by climbing African Herbman then trending left to the Dreadlock anchors after the fourth bolt of Herbman. Could trad lead this, lots of natural placements/sling opportunities Trad North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 329 ● The Greatest Show on Earth May 23, 2026 · TR. Good climb Sport North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 43 ● Dancing Bears May 23, 2026 · TR. Brennan set this up by climbing Strongman and then traversing over. Crack is a little too wide to jam, maybe fists will work or off width. Not the best trad lead opportunity, placements are big but crack is very flaring. Trad North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 244 ● Strongman May 23, 2026 · TR. Sweet climbing in the first half, pumpy jugs in the second, could lead this in the future Sport North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 143 ● Perfect Hair Forever May 23, 2026 · TR. Great first lead, all of the stances are good Sport North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 122 ● Action Hotdog May 23, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Bolts are all to the left of the line, chill climbing but not the best first lead in this area Sport North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 75 ● Kurbcheck May 23, 2026 · TR. Fun climb, easier than Harry Potter to me Sport North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 134 ● Harry Potter May 23, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Lead this to set up Harry Potter and the climb next to it on top rope. First half is thin but second half is chill Sport North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X 81 ● Dr. Coolhead May 17, 2026 · TR. Fell a few times at the cruxes after each bolt. Hardest portion for me is the crux above the second bolt. Requires a smear or two on some small crimps. Avoid using the crack to stay above board on the send. Climbing to the first bolt is tough but doable with some practice, but needs to be solid before leading. Room for cams before first bolt. Trad, TR Wichita Mountai… > Narrows > Zoo Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 201 ● Crazy Alice May 17, 2026 · TR. Fun, more crack technique than you think! Trad Wichita Mountai… > Narrows > Zoo Wall
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 30 ● Slap Roof May 17, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Skipped the beginning move by going around. Still had a hard time because some of the placements are sparse in some areas, and I was having a bad climbing day. Should force myself to try this again someday on lead. Used the rope to build the anchor at the top of two large boulders. A small nut and some small cams + a 2 Trad Wichita Mountai… > Narrows > Zoo Wall
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 1,877 ● Birdland Apr 10, 2026 · 5 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. Led pitches 1, 3, and 5 with Kevin and LeRoy. We did the top rope beta for pitch 5 which meant I got to rappel down to the top of pitch 3 while Kevin top roped and that saved some time and space at the pitch 4 belay station. Despite what MP says, a #4 is not useful on most/all of the route. Pitch 5 takes tons of nuts. I had singles of 0.3-0.5 and double 0.75/1 and placed almost all of them, could used doubles of the 0.3-0.5 and maybe a 0.2 as well. Trad 6 pitches Southern Nevada > … > Pine Creek Canyon > Brass Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 34 ● Above and Beyond Apr 9, 2026 · Follow. Climbed this with Kevin and LeRoy, they took chocolate tranquility fountain then let me follow on this one. Very cool movement and staying left of the main line like in the comments is worth it, though protection is scarce over there. Trad Southern Nevada > … > Willow Spring > Willow Springs South
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 56 ● Sleeper Apr 9, 2026 · TR. Super cool movement, probably tough to protect. Climbed this with LeRoy and Kevin. Trad Southern Nevada > … > Willow Spring > Willow Springs South
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 122 ● Pillar Talk Apr 9, 2026 · Follow. Climbed with Kevin and LeRoy. First pitch is kind of spicy and has some blind placements. Doubles of 4-6 if you can. Second pitch is very runout and definitely not 5.4, but still easy and not a bad climb. At the top of pitch 2, use the rope to build a big anchor far back and then extend it over to the edge. Easy access to some other fun climbs on top. Descend via Sleeper rap tree which is a little hidden Trad 2 pitches Southern Nevada > … > Willow Spring > Willow Springs South
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 675 ● Ragged Edges Apr 8, 2026 · Follow. Followed Kevin in one long pitch to link 1+2. Crux is getting off ledge where the anchor is for top of pitch 1. Crack is too wide for my hands and just barely too tight for my fist. I lay-backed that section, was strenuous but the edge and the feet are both good. If leading, would need all the big gear I have up to a 6. Trad 2 pitches Southern Nevada > … > Willow Spring > Ragged Edges Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 351 ● Plan F - Early Exit Apr 8, 2026 · TR. Super cool climb, not as crack-centric as it seems, crux is last move getting up to the anchor. When leading, would take small gear and lots of nuts. Trad Southern Nevada > … > Willow Spring > Ragged Edges Area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 66 ● Revoked Apr 8, 2026 · TR. Ticking this as a placeholder for a top rope right immediately right of Revoked, on a varnished face where you can trend right for more holds but more vertical, or left for less holds but more slab. Trad Southern Nevada > … > Willow Spring > Ragged Edges Area
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 201 ● Over the Hill to Grandmother's H… Apr 7, 2026 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. Lead first pitch with a #2 already in the roof. Got rope stuck in the crack so rope drag was horrible and I couldn’t be lowered down. Had to pull up enough rope to self lower down the crack to fix the rope then self lower the rest of the way Trad 2 pitches Southern Nevada > … 1 > Red Spring > Riding Hood Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 50 ● The Kracken Feb 22, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Cole les first pitch, I led second pitch. First pitch has an easy starting slab, second bolt is high but you can reach it from below the overlap before climbing over it. No need for any extra shenanigans to protect the fall, it’s easy climbing. Second pitch gets progressively more run out at the top, but the angle is low and the friction is good. 70M rope reaches for all rappels. Sport 2 pitches Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > Cheap Wine Wall
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 4 ● Caver's Nightmare Feb 21, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Did this to try and look for anchors which Kevin thought might be above another route to allow us to pull a gear anchor and rap. Couldn’t find anchors (there may not be any really) so came back down and we wrapped the large flake with an equivocation hitch and rapped Trad Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > Center Wall
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 199 ● Jack Knife Feb 21, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Maybe a bit stout for 5.5 but maybe I’m bad at cracks. Went up with 10 other TM climbers and belayed them all up to do cave crack eventually. Jack knife anchors on front side were fixed to a rap ring bolt in the back side with a fixed rope to go down to cave crack, no need to run rap ropes over the top of the flake. Good candidate for connecting bolts and belaying off a single carabiner master point, super inconvenient anchor placement Trad Enchanted Rock… > Echo Canyon > Throne Rock Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 12 ● More Sweat Feb 21, 2026 · TR. Top was the hardest part, very thin feet. Shares anchors with Sweat TR Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > News Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 20 ● Mercy Street Feb 21, 2026 · TR. A typical bolt spacing, first half is pretty thin but protected by a 0.5-0.75 or something before getting to the first bolt. Sport Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > News Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 112 ● Pro Sweat Feb 21, 2026 · TR. Slow but solid. A fair number of positive holds Sport Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > News Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 227 ● Sweat Feb 21, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Bigger gear than you think at the bottom. I used one 4, one 3, two 2s, and some finger cams at the top. I had to bump the 3+4 at the bottom and would’ve liked a second 3/4 Trad Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > News Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 0 ● Flying Nun Variation Dec 7, 2025 · Follow. Followed Finn to finish out 1.5 pitch multipitch climb. Move out to arete is better than it looks. One last piece goes in at the top of the crack then top out on the block before there is pro again. Trad Wichita Mountai… > Narrows > Zoo Wall
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 166 ● The Dihedral Dec 7, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. Take a 5 but don’t take any 4s. Hand to finger size stuff and nuts Trad, TR Wichita Mountai… > Narrows > Zoo Wall
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 104 ● Halfling's Leaf Nov 15, 2025 · TR. Honestly not bad for an 8+, crux is pulling onto the face from below. Eases as you get higher Sport Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Middle Earth Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 13 ● Mystic Wonder Nov 15, 2025 · TR. Fun to pull around the arete but pretty straight forward after that. Shares anchors with 8+ to the right TR Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Middle Earth Wall
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 74 ● Middle Earth Cave Nov 15, 2025 · TR. Fun chimney, great for first timers, cave adds a cool factor. Anchor is closer to left 8 than right 8+ TR Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Middle Earth Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 119 ● My Precious Nov 15, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Good lead, holds are meh but fine. Easy to set this anchor, hard to traverse to the 6 anchor to the right. Have to top out and traverse over. Maybe a better way somehow. Good M setup though for the 6 Sport Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Middle Earth Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 77 ● Hobbit Hole Nov 15, 2025 · TR. Good climb, straight forward. Good stance at the anchor with a big ledge, big enough for 2. Was nice while teaching some folks to clean anchors. Could set both 7s on top rope from here very easily, both anchors within arms reach. Sport Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Middle Earth Wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R 11 ● Red Dog Nov 15, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Hang dogged up this. Probably could do it once I practice the moves. Crux is getting up the arete, the roof is better than it looks and protected well from a bolt with a good but strenuous stance. Sport Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Cheap Beer Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 19 ● Mickey's Big Mouth Nov 15, 2025 · TR. Fun, crack is nice. Don’t bother with the trad placements, they’re all flared and garbage Trad, TR Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Cheap Beer Wall
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 30 ● Milwaukee's Beast Nov 15, 2025 · TR. Good climb, solid lead with good stances. Can set two TR in one climb Sport Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Cheap Beer Wall