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Routes in News Wall

Baba Wawa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Good Morning America TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Late Night T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Mercy Street S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
More Sweat TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Sweat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pro Sweat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slippery When Sweat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walter Funkite T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Sport
FA: Keith Guillory
Page Views: 1,255 total, 9/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Face Right of Pro Sweat is the right-most route on News Wall. Very similar to Pro Sweat, but more difficult and slightly run out between bolts. Climb to the same overlap on Pro Sweat, this time without the benefit of a bolt below it. You could probably protect the overlap with a small cam (TCU), but the placement wouldn't be great. The crux is pinching small crystals and stepping above the overlap. The climbing remains steep to the first bolt and the eases up a little to the top. Climb past one more bolt en route to the anchors.

Protection

Two or three quickdraws, an optional small TCU or Alien at the overlap, and something for the anchors.

Photos

Superclimber
  5.10a PG13
Superclimber  
  5.10a PG13
Mercy Street has historically been documented as 5.10a in guide books. The 5.10a grade is consistent with other grades in the park. Additionally, the pro in the overlap is quite good and various size placements can be found. The best options for pro in the overlap probably exist a little bit higher in the crack and slightly right of the bolt line. Take a long runner. Warning: there has been at least one serious injury resulting from a fall onto the overlap from below the first bolt. Gear in the overlap, 3 bolts above the overlap, and double bolted rap bolts at the top. A 60 Meter rope will make it down. Jan 30, 2014
kachoong
Atlanta, GA
kachoong   Atlanta, GA
The gear in the overlap is great actually and you can equalize two if you feel you want to. Steep climbing to the first bolt above the overlap. Definitely 10a. May 17, 2011