Type: Trad
FA: Stuart Chamberlain, Richard Meining
Page Views: 9,798 total · 65/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

144 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


Sweat is a short, but stellar, crack climb located where the blue climbers trail hits the wall. It is easy to spot as an arching crack that ends at a ledge with a small group of trees. The climb starts out as a fist crack (#3 Camalot), narrows to hands (the best part of the route), and then ends as a finger crack below the anchors. Just below the anchors are two cracks that you can use to get around a large hanging flake. You can either use the anchors at the ledge (bolts with chain links), or continue to a second set (rap anchors) located up and slight right from the ledge. To descend, rap with a single rope back to the base. Easily one of the best 5.7s in the park.


Light trad rack with cams to a #3 Camalot. Choice of two 2-bolt anchors at the top.
ben bryan
Wichita Falls, TX
ben bryan   Wichita Falls, TX
Awesome early trad lead. Pro is easy, and route fun. Buzzards roost in the area... Dec 17, 2006
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Not to be confused with the "Buzzards roost" area...

but yeah, there's a lot of poop Jun 29, 2007
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
that is a sick lookin crack Jun 11, 2009
Jennifer Barton
Champaign, IL
Jennifer Barton   Champaign, IL
If you don't have "man hands" to make it a fist crack, the first 10 feet is a more interesting offwidth. A #4 Camalot can provide some comfort in the first 5-10 feet of the crack. This was my favorite route of the trip. Dec 23, 2010
Jeremy Bauman
Lakewood, CO
Jeremy Bauman   Lakewood, CO
First trad lead many years ago. I remember being so scared that I placed a piece every 2ft or so. I did it last year and placed maybe 4-5 pieces. Oct 28, 2011
The first 10-20 feet is offwidth. However, you can layback and "sit" on the rock. You can also reach in DEEP, and there is a bottom to the crack that has a lip. A good, fun solo, too.

This is also the area for easy access to the ledge up top to setup/rap-down French Route/Fly on a Windshield, Stranger than Friction, Texas Radio, and other backside classics. May 10, 2013
William Kramer
Kemmerer, WY
William Kramer   Kemmerer, WY
Fun crack, starts as OW and ends as finger, protects easy, used a #3 camalot, a #2 camalot, and a #12 stopper. Will suggest going to anchors for Pro Choice on the right, anchors on the left you have to jump cracks under that overhanging rock on top, then over to a little ledge. Easy, just don't like it cause I hit my head on thus stated rock. Apr 22, 2014
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Fantastic easy crack!! As mentioned above, the wider section in the beginning can be overcome by getting in deep and using the flake/layback, but why not hone your technique on this low angle beauty? Especially for aspiring crackheads-- lead it, set a TR and work it. Get a feel for fists and then slam some jams! Sep 18, 2014
Michael Weiss
Oakland, CA
Michael Weiss   Oakland, CA
Crack takes #4 camalots at the bottom and #0.5s at the top. Couldn't place a good #3 in until 12ish feet up so you might want to bring a #4 for the lower part of the crack. Placing nuts gets pretty good as soon as the crack gets thin enough, I think I placed a #12 and a #10 towards the top. The entire climb is at a low enough angle that I took both of my hands out of the crack to place most of my pro. Foot jams are stupid easy until the crack thins at the top 10-15 feet. I would say the crux is the last couple moves in the crack but you can still easily get a toe in if you don't have sasquatch feet. This route was in my top two most enjoyable outdoor climbing experiences, it is incredible! Dec 19, 2018
Read up on how to climb cracks. This thing is no 5.7 if you are not familiar with them. 1 day ago