Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 1,034 total · 17/month
Shared By: Robert S on Jun 23, 2019
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Joanie Mars, Jim Day

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start up Walter Funkite, pull the break, and head straight for the top.

Originally, this was done as a free solo by James Crump. Just about everyone topropes it now, and it is listed as a TR in a newer guidebook, but I have listed it in keeping with the FA.

If you want to lead this on gear, you can protect the move pulling the break (a #6 works), but there is no pro after that, so any fall 20' or so or more above that piece means cratering.

Location Suggest change

At the base of News Wall, find Walter Funkite. The picture here should make locating Today Show easy. That's if you're actually going to lead it.

Otherwise, lead Funkite, No Sweat, or Sweat to the Funkite anchors, climb the easy mini-pitch to the top of News Wall, and walk left beneath a headwall to bolted anchors you can use to set a TR.

Or approach News Wall from the top. The best way is to take the Echo Canyon Trail to its crest, ascend up the slabs to and past the Lunar Rocks and then cut over to the Backside and find an easy slab that takes one to a climber's trail that wanders across the top of Center Wall, News Wall, and part of the Shield. It is an easy but exposed walk to the anchors mentioned, but if that doesn't look good, it's possible to build a TR anchor and hang the masterpoint over the headwall.

Protection Suggest change

Two anchor bolts or build a TR anchor from higher up.

Photos

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