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Nobody Likes Bryant Gumbel
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British X
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in News Wall
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Baba Wawa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Good Morning America TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Late Night T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Mercy Street S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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More Sweat TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Sweat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nobody Likes Bryant Gumbel T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X |
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Pro Sweat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slippery When Sweat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Today Show, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Walter Funkite T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | James Crump, Mike Head |
| Page Views: | 1,059 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Robert S on Jun 23, 2019 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset
Details
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.
Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.
For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…
830-685-3636
Description
This is the second-to-last route on the left side of News Wall. It starts left of a large tree and follows a black water streak to a chute up top. Along the way, there is an overlap to pull, and this is probably the crux. People sometimes drift left along the overlap and use some of the Baba Wawa holds. That's fine, but that's not the 5.9.
Originally, this was done as a free solo by James Crump and Mike Head, and in Crump's Dome Driver's Manual, it is a 5.9- X. Just about everyone topropes it now, and it is listed as a TR in a newer guidebook, but I have listed it in keeping with the FA.
If you wanted to lead this on gear, you could get a marginal/poor piece to protect pulling the overlap, and there is a horizontal flake below the top-out that would probably break if you fell on a cam or cammed Tricam. If you fell on either piece and it blew, you would deck, so considering that and the quality of the rock, this really is an X lead.
In the chute at the top are two bolted anchors known as the News Wall anchors. Please leave these open for parties rappelling, especially on weekends and on other busy days. There is a large boulder behind the anchors, and you can hang a TR masterpoint over it. Doing so will also result in much less rope drag than using the anchors will.
Note: in DDM, this route and Baba Wawa are part of the Prok Wall, which is part of the Shield. However, the newer O'Grady guide has them on News Wall. Since the person who submitted the BW page put it with News Wall and since most people call the anchors above BG the News Wall anchors, I have included BG under News Wall as well.
Location
Otherwise, lead Funkite, No Sweat, or Sweat to the Funkite anchors, climb the easy mini-pitch to the top of News Wall, and then locate the chute with the rap bolts. Or approach News Wall from the top. The best way is to take the Echo Canyon Trail to its crest, ascend up the slabs to and past the Lunar Rocks and then cut over to the Backside and find an easy slab that takes one to a climber's trail that wanders across the top of Center Wall, News Wall, and part of the Shield.
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