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Areas in Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Boosted Monkey Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Buzzard's Roost 22 / 5 / 8 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Echo Canyon 27 / 5 / 11 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
Flag Pole 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Freshman Mountain 15 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Little Dome 42 / 7 / 28 / 62 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 104
Main Dome 50 / 19 / 22 / 39 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 107
Turkey Peak 3 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Elevation: 1,602 ft
GPS: 30.503, -98.821 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 261,395 total, 1,903/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Sep 2, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

Description

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area consists of over 1600 acres on the Big Sandy Creek north of Fredericksburg. The actual Rock is a large, pink granite dome that covers over 640 acres. The major dome is over 425' high. According to the Texas Parks Service, the dome itself is one of the largest batholithe's Pink Granite batholiths uncovered by erosion in the US. The main dome lies next to a second dome, both of which are surrounded by smaller formations. In the park, you will find tons of established bolted and traditional routes including aid routes that go up to A3. In addition, for those who love to hump pads, there is bouldering aplenty on the eratics surrounding the main domes.
Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Getting There

17 miles outside of Fredericksburg via Ranch Road 965. Or take Highway 16 south for 14 miles from Llano and the Ranch Road 965 west to Enchanted Rock State Natural Area.

Fees and Camping

The park is open year round except when public hunts take place (typically in the fall or winter, but check the calendar of events or call the park ahead to inquire). The entry fee is $7/person per day and is required in addition to any camping fees outlined below. Keep in mind that this park IS VERY POPULAR and that it does frequently reach maximum capacity in terms of parking and available space. So, if you want to get in, plan on getting there early, especially on weekends.

Excellent walk-in sites are available. These sites have tent pads, fire rings, and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers and water are within easy reach of each of the camping areas. Fees for the walk in sites are $15/night (as of April 2008; check TPWD's fee site for most current fees) with a maximum of 8 campers allowed at a single site. There are 46 sites available, all of which fill up fast, so reserve a site well in advance if you are planning on staying overnight at the park.

In addition, primitive sites (requiring a 1 to 3 mile hike) are available. These sites are $10/night for a maximum of four people per site. There are a 20 spaces located in each of the three available primitive areas. The primitive sites have access to outdoor toilets. Pets are allowed in the primitive areas. No water is available in these areas and fires not permitted.

Guides and Resources

The original guide by Robert Price, Scott Harris and James Crump, The Dome Driver's Manual is long out of print although it is still possible to find used copies. However, Sean Grady recently published a updated guide to E-Rock called Enchanted Rock: A Climber's Guide which contains over 300 routes and 150 boulder problems. In addition, you can find topos of routes at E-Rock at ERockOnlinedotcom as well as an overview of the climbing areas and information concerning recreation and camping on the TPWD site.

314 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jack Knife
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cave Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweat
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Crack
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mark of the Beast
Sport 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Owl Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pro Sweat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Feat
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ripple
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eat
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Peel
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Top Choice
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Texas Crude
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grass Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jack Knife Echo Canyon > Throne Rock Area 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Cave Crack Echo Canyon > Orange Peel Area 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Sweat Main Dome > News Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Middle Crack Echo Canyon > Triple Cracks Sanctuary 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mark of the Beast Main Dome > Devil's Slide 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Owl Crack Echo Canyon > Triple Cracks Sanctuary 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Pro Sweat Main Dome > News Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Little Feat Buzzard's Roost > E Face of Buzzard's Roost 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ripple Main Dome > Cheap Wine Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Eat Buzzard's Roost > Southeast Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Orange Peel Echo Canyon > Orange Peel Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Top Choice Little Dome > Carnivore Boulders 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Texas Crude Buzzard's Roost > E Face of Buzzard's Roost 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fear of Flying Buzzard's Roost > E Face of Buzzard's Roost 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Grass Crack Echo Canyon > Triple Cracks Sanctuary 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Enchanted Rock State Natural Area »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Has anyone happened to have found a single TC Pro over in Middle Crack Sanctuary by Owl Crack? Dec 7, 2017
NickyV  
Stoked to climb this weekend. Send me a pm if interested. Dec 13, 2016
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
There is good camping roughly 7 miles south of Erock at the Frontier Outpost. Pick your own site. There are restrooms but no showers, moderate amenities including beer. $5 per night. You can use showers at Erock on your day pass. The Outpost is located on the 965. Oxford camping is in the middle of a livestock area which means you will be searching for a site between cow patties. No livestock at Frontier Outpost. Jan 13, 2016
Jamie Umbras
Moab, UT
Jamie Umbras   Moab, UT
Does anyone know if there is good place to park and sleep in vehicle without getting campsite around here? Jan 12, 2016
Tyler Jarvis
Spearfish, South Dakota
Tyler Jarvis   Spearfish, South Dakota
Anyone free to go climbin this week? awesome weather window super down to camp
512 663-3692 Nov 16, 2015
Camping if the park is full: You can go to Oxford Ranch Campground

Oxford Ranch Campground
11380 TX-16
Llano, TX 78643

It's about 13 miles north of the park.

Facebook: facebook.com/Oxford-Ranch-C… Sep 28, 2015
jfailing
Portland, OR
jfailing   Portland, OR
What is the latest on camping? If the main camping area is full, are there any alternatives for car camping, or does one have to go to the primitive sites? Can't wait to climb here! Mar 4, 2015
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
OK, the directions were a fail on my part. My apologies to all who went north from Llano. Send all bills to me via MP. Jun 2, 2014
virginiapine
Charlottesville, Virginia
virginiapine   Charlottesville, Virginia
Ummm, ERSNA is most definitely SOUTH of Llano, not north... Apr 8, 2014
Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas
Ryan Levihn-Coon   Austin, Texas
The entry fee is now $7 per person. An annual State Park Pass will wave the fee for everybody in a single vehicle. The pass costs $60, good for 12 months. Dec 24, 2013
GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of Crack climb at Enchanted Rock:

youtube.com/watch?v=fw5y-mF… Jan 19, 2013
jeremy long
BOULDER CO
jeremy long   BOULDER CO
I miss e rock! It's where I cut my trad teeth. Hope I'll climb again there someday. I've heard the bouldering has really taken off there. May 19, 2011
The new Enchanted Rock guidebook is out! New routes, new photos, etc. Should be in the Austin area shops or online:
sharpendbooks.com/prod.php?… Dec 19, 2010
J C Wilks
Loveland, CO
J C Wilks   Loveland, CO
And Bergeron that's the name I was trying to remember. Yeah don't forget that guy. A while back, I missed buying it on MP by minutes.

Stranger Than Friction: A Climbers Guide to Enchanted Rock, 1984, Dale Bergeron/James Crump.

If anyone needs a lesson Rick's with rock-about.com. I'd recommend them. May 12, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Nope, "Stranger than Friction" is all James Crump and Dale Bergeron. Though Rick Watson is a Wikipedia of info and fun at Erock. Jan 1, 2009
J C Wilks
Loveland, CO
J C Wilks   Loveland, CO
I think there was an earlier guide book called 'Stranger than Friction' by Rick Watson? Good luck finding that one! Sep 3, 2008
Shawn Gibson
San Antonio, Texas
Shawn Gibson   San Antonio, Texas
Those are bad directions from Llano. Take HWY 16 SOUTH from Llano, to ranch road 965.

You would take HWY 87 North from Frdricksburg to rr 965. Feb 24, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
A better resource is erockonline.com Jun 28, 2007
Can anyone give me a heads up to the weather at Enchanted in November? Mar 30, 2007
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
For a quick overview of the climbing at E-Rock, download a map produced by the TPWD on their web site (www.tpwd.state.tx.us):

E-Rock Climbing Overview

It's not very detailed, but it will get you to the general area. There is also a "select" list of climbs throughout the park on the 2nd page.

The TPWD website contains a lot of additional information on the park such as camping and hiking trails.

E-Rock Park Map Sep 15, 2006

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