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Routes in Orange Peel Area

Agent Orange T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cave Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clockwerk Orange S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Crevice Cruise T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Journey To Evermore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mystery and Imagination S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscured by Clouds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangasm T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Orange Juice T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Peel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Garth McGee
Page Views: 5,437 total, 40/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This route is located left of the prominent orange wall that contains two bolted face routes. Orange Peel starts off a couple of blocks against the base of the wall and climbs a thin finger crack in a left facing corner. After a slick start, work up the thin crack using intermittent and shallow finger holds � the majority of the crack is tips at best. There are some good flakes a little over half way to the top that offer solid climbing a good holds on the face. Once above these flakes, its easy climbing to the anchors. Rap with one rope. You can easily top rope this route, but there will be some rope drag across the low angle rock near the anchors

Protection

Standard rack with an emphasis on small gear (TCUs and small Aliens)

Photos

I was just up there on Sunday. It's the left bolt hanger on the 2-bolt anchor above Orange Peel (or ~30ft below the tree you belay from at the top of Cave Crack). It spins freely but the bolt doesn't wiggle, although I didn't beat up on it too much as we were using it to rap/TR. The right bolt seems solid enough.

Both bolts/hangers have a fair amount of surface rust.

I have a video but can't seem to upload it here, but I did send it to the CTCC who maintain the fixed anchors in the park. Nov 28, 2017
Camtheman, what was it about the anchors that looked bad? Just surface rust or spinning hangars or was there some other indication you had of the condition? May 15, 2017
Cameron Casey
Las Vegas
 
Cameron Casey   Las Vegas
 
Fantastic route! I'm not an expert on the subject, but the anchors up top look like they should be replaced, especially the left one. Feb 18, 2017
Superclimber
  5.10a
Superclimber  
  5.10a
Move for move the 5.10a grade seems fair. But wiggling in stoppers from those thin edges and tiny nubs makes it feel tougher. One of Erock's über classics and a tricky lead. Feb 6, 2014
Just to update the history, as I recall now, it is quite likely that my first ascent occurred in the fall of 1975. Jun 27, 2013
Johnny Y
California
  5.10b
Johnny Y   California
  5.10b
Strenuous to put pros, nuts are best but I used the small metolius down low to avoid fiddling with gear. Lots of good spots to smear your right foot outside of the corner. Heady lead Apr 16, 2013
I recall my first ascent day, in the spring of 1976, I believe. We really had no idea what 5.10 was at the time, as none of the locals had any 5.10 experience. I got focused, tightened up the EB's, and hoped the thin stoppers would hold. Note that at the urging of the ground crowd, I did not step left at the rest midway up. No one could second that day, and had to collect the gear on rappel.

I recall that Jeff Lowe came through Austin a couple of weeks later, and we took him to Orange Peel as the first climb of the day. I recall his comment, “Seemed a bit hard for 5.9”.

Garth Magee Aug 5, 2012
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
One of my favorites as well. It calls for real delicacy in the first 20 feet particularly if you have big hands. Small wires (or aliens which had not been invented when I led it) are great here, my only caution is that one should be concerned to not place pro where you will need to put fingers. Aug 21, 2007
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
This was the first 5.10 lead at E-rock!
and for good reason.

If you are Toproping this route, the best thing to do is plug two cams into the flake once the angle eases, and TR off that. and then when you are done, finish to the anchors. Jun 29, 2007