Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches
FA: 2012?
Page Views: 397 total · 11/month
Shared By: Michael Klein on Mar 15, 2022
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This rig could use some bolts but is fun climbing up a series of boulders leading to face climbing right of cave crack.  expect to be climbing 5.9 w/o gear! Currently it is essentially a solo. It would be awesome to make it a bolting party with like 20 people drilling all holes at the same time. Its got great rock , interesting cruxes and some sustained 5.7 slab climbing with no protection. Cruxes are 5.9 boulder problems close to ground but with bad rock landings or non-landings. There is a potential new lower start, find it for a prize!

Location Suggest change

From Lunch Rock go up the low angle slabs. Enter the first small cave and scramble on top of large block to light of day. You will be at the base of the first island. Set a belay/ spot here.  A committing boulder problem leads to  easier climbing

Protection Suggest change

Pro what pro :) 3/4 way up the first boulder there is a directional placement to protect your second, #1-2 cam. with long sling. Theres a good belay with gear at the top of second block, solo 2 more blocks to Seated Hip Belay, Climb one more to SHB. From here climb the blank face 20 ft right of cave crack till the angle eases. when a great stance presents take SHB. Walk off.

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