Type: Trad
FA: Robert Titley, Lois Leftwich
Page Views: 12,553 total · 75/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Despite the modest grade, Cave Crack is one of the best routes in the park. Fun climbing, great protection, and a unique location make this climb a must do. The start of Cave Crack is located above Jack Knife (see Throne Rock). While it's possible to scramble through the boulders to reach to base, climbing Jack Knife is a lot easier (and more enjoyable). From the top of Jack Knife, scramble down the back side of the summit block and scamper through a small opening under a large detached boulder. Once you stand up, you'll be in a narrow, chimney-like space with a hand crack that splits the back wall. Follow the crack for about fifty feet until you reach the top of the cave. The crack starts as a hand crack and gradually widens as you move up. At the top of the cave, step left onto the face, continue around the corner, and work up the widening crack. Above the cave, the angle eases significantly, and you can walk up the rest of the climb until you find a comfortable spot to belay. To descend, scramble down the easy slab to the anchors above Orange Peel and rap with a single rope to the base. Great climbing in the summer when the rest of E-Rock is too hot to touch.

Protection

Standard rack with cams up to a 3.5 Camalot.

Photos