Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: James Crump, Matty Nematollahi
Page Views: 5,330 total · 48/month
Shared By: Neal Douglass on Mar 9, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


The start is slight right of the bolt line up a flake into a dish. Clip first bolt and move left to the second bolt. It is best to remove the first clip as it will cause rope drag. Move past the bolt using a mantle move. This gives way to the second (3rd) bolt. Climb up to a good stance and clip the third (4th)bolt and the next fun moves. A small crack and a fancy foot work gets you past this fun section. Once above the crack you encounter another mantle and access to the fourth (5th) bolt. Move a little left and climb up to a short ramp and the fifth (6th) bolt. A long run out of around 35' up and right takes you to the rap anchors and finishes the first pitch. The second pitch is on easy but run out rock to the top. There are belay anchors at the base of a large boulder at the top. You may also use the rap anchors that will deposited you at the base on French Route.


Starts at small flake right of a large dish. Rap anchors finish first pitch. Climb out or rap to base of French Route.


6 bolts & Rap anchors


Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
  5.9+ PG13
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
  5.9+ PG13
this route feels easier than 5.10 to me compared to other 10s ive been on. It is however pretty sustained from start to the top out of the vertical section. Great route and worth doing. Sep 20, 2010
John D
5.10b PG13
John D  
5.10b PG13
The mantle's on this route were super fun, but I'd hate to blow them, you'll go for a ride. Also it can be done as one pitch, I got a little lost after I finished the first pitch, so I clipped one of the anchor bolts and kept hiking. Probably easier to do it in one pitch, gives you less time to think about the super run out 5.7 slab ahead. You can protect the last move or two to the second pitch anchors. I think it's about a green camalot size but can't remember for sure. Sep 6, 2012
I did this onsite years ago. 10b for sure. Yes, that 2nd mantel will get the heart rate up, even before you do it! Don't forget Fly on a Windshield (10a) and French Route (11a), just to the right. May 6, 2013
mattm   TX
Rather than head up and right on the runout slab after the 6th bolt, I continue up and left into the right facing flake. This takes you up and eventually right towards the mid-anchor. You can get good pro in along here.(#2 C4 and .5 C4) Just feels like the natural line to me. OR, even better, follow the flake until it punches down, get your last pro in and then move up and LEFT on moderate slab to another set of anchors where you can easily get on Pummel Jenga, 6th Happiness and Texas Radio. Nov 4, 2013
This might be the single most classic climb in the park!

One option for preventing rope drag is to clip the first bolt with a double length runner, then travse to the second bolt, clip it and pull the "infamous mantle." Once over the mantle, clip the third bolt, and finally reach down to your feet and unclip the second bolt. It also helps to use a long runner on the sixth bolt, right before the right trending runout.

A 60 Meter rope will barely make it from the midway anchors as long as the rope isn't still meandering down the wall through runners or quickdraws. A 60 meter only makes it if you are careful where you aim. If you aim too far left it will come up short. Use knots in the ends of your rope. Do not attempt to be lowered off by the belayer with the rope running through quick draws and runners. If you go all the way to the second set of anchors a 60 meter rope will not make it down in one rappel. I don't think a 70 will make it either. Feb 9, 2014
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
That first mantle is the business. Excellent route that keeps coming, and one of the most memorable slab routes I've ever been on. The upper mantle over the mild runout is perfect! You'll find the long runout above the last bolt to be super cruiser if you've made it that far without problems.

I unclipped the first bolt after clipping the 2nd. Didn't see much need for extending the last & had no problems. Sep 30, 2014