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Routes in East Face of Buzzard's Roost

Aquatic Anxiety T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Shrike T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Snatch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Texas Crude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 8,693 total, 65/month
Shared By: sirhctrebor on Dec 29, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This is one of the most infamous central Texas climbs, and rightly so. Fear of Flying is a continuous crack in a beautiful dihedral that widens up top. Most choose to lieback this beast, which makes the climbing easier, but adds an interesting challenge when placing big gear.

Location

Once you locate the East Face of Buzzard's Roost, find the 80' most prominent dihedral rising above a large triangular block leaning against the wall.

Protection

Crack widens significantly near the top. There are no anchors. Bring several long slings or an anchor rope to build an adequate anchor.
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10+
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10+
This route kicked the living shit out of me. You can definitely OW instead of lay back toward the top. Such an awesome climb! Jan 15, 2016
Greg Barbosa
Austin, TX
 
Greg Barbosa   Austin, TX
 
Arguably the highest quality rock in the park, and certainly one of the most striking lines. A must do!! I used an interesting method to toprope this with the limited materials I had. We set small to medium pieces in the numerous cracks which are (inconveniently) found quite far away from the edge of the cliff. We then tied a large loop in a 7mm static line that we'd been using as a tag line and equalized the pieces, effectively making a really big cordalette. The master point (and the rope) stayed out of the crack nicely, and we felt like we had a super bomber anchor. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else out there wants to toprope this beautiful climb but doesn't have access to large gear. May 24, 2015
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
  5.10
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
  5.10
After building a top-rope anchor, I put in a #6 camalot as a directional to keep the ropes from running too deep inside the fissure. Jan 21, 2015
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Unless you are super solid at the grade you will want at least one #6.

I took 2 and would do it again. Dec 8, 2014
AP
 
AP  
 
I placed a # 5 and #6 for the last 20'...6 fits beautifully as last piece. Nov 30, 2014
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10-
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10-
Awesome route! A full blown lieback beast! But not actually too pumpy or hard due to the good feet (use the crack for some heel toe cams). I would bring 2 #4 camalots and 1 #5 camalot for the top. I didn't bring a five and if you were to blow the mantle up top you'd be in for a long flight, back to the last number 4. Walk the cams when you can and it protects well! Bring a number 2 and 3 for the first 20 feet. Sep 28, 2012
jeremy long
BOULDER CO
 
jeremy long   BOULDER CO
 
I MISS ENCHANTED ROCK! I love the cave on the main dome May 19, 2011
talkinrocks
Boulder, CO
talkinrocks   Boulder, CO
So much fun!! If you are leading it, walking your gear is the key to this beast. If you are TR, lieback till the cows come home and dont stop moving for the fear of flying or a good flash pump. May 24, 2009
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
My brother and I were headed up to the base of this route in the early 80's. We arrived just in time to meet up with Chris Rowens who had just led it with some interesting gear for the wide sections . . . bongs and 2 x 4's! Aug 5, 2007