Type: Trad
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 9,787 total · 67/month
Shared By: Chris Tarbet on Dec 29, 2006 with updates from Mac Murchison
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


This is one of the most infamous central Texas climbs, and rightly so. Fear of Flying is a continuous crack in a beautiful dihedral that widens up top. Most choose to lieback this beast, which makes the climbing easier, but adds an interesting challenge when placing big gear.


Once you locate the East Face of Buzzard's Roost, find the 80' most prominent dihedral rising above a large triangular block leaning against the wall.


Crack widens significantly so bring one or two #6s for the top in addition to the range of medium to large cams needed below. There are no anchors. Bring a collection of long slings or an anchor rope to build an adequate anchor above.


marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
My brother and I were headed up to the base of this route in the early 80's. We arrived just in time to meet up with Chris Rowens who had just led it with some interesting gear for the wide sections . . . bongs and 2 x 4's! Aug 5, 2007
Boulder, CO
talkinrocks   Boulder, CO
So much fun!! If you are leading it, walking your gear is the key to this beast. If you are TR, lieback till the cows come home and dont stop moving for the fear of flying or a good flash pump. May 24, 2009
jeremy long
jeremy long   BOULDER CO
I MISS ENCHANTED ROCK! I love the cave on the main dome May 19, 2011
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
Awesome route! A full blown lieback beast! But not actually too pumpy or hard due to the good feet (use the crack for some heel toe cams). I would bring 2 #4 camalots and 1 #5 camalot for the top. I didn't bring a five and if you were to blow the mantle up top you'd be in for a long flight, back to the last number 4. Walk the cams when you can and it protects well! Bring a number 2 and 3 for the first 20 feet. Sep 28, 2012
I placed a # 5 and #6 for the last 20'...6 fits beautifully as last piece. Nov 30, 2014
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Unless you are super solid at the grade you will want at least one #6.

I took 2 and would do it again. Dec 8, 2014
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
After building a top-rope anchor, I put in a #6 camalot as a directional to keep the ropes from running too deep inside the fissure. Jan 21, 2015
Greg Barbosa
Austin, TX
Greg Barbosa   Austin, TX
Arguably the highest quality rock in the park, and certainly one of the most striking lines. A must do!! I used an interesting method to toprope this with the limited materials I had. We set small to medium pieces in the numerous cracks which are (inconveniently) found quite far away from the edge of the cliff. We then tied a large loop in a 7mm static line that we'd been using as a tag line and equalized the pieces, effectively making a really big cordalette. The master point (and the rope) stayed out of the crack nicely, and we felt like we had a super bomber anchor. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else out there wants to toprope this beautiful climb but doesn't have access to large gear. May 24, 2015
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, TH
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, TH
This route kicked the living shit out of me. You can definitely OW instead of lay back toward the top. Such an awesome climb! Jan 15, 2016