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Areas in Buzzard's Roost

East Face of Buzzard's Roost 6 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Graveyard, The 0 / 1 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Sol Boulder 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Southeast Face 10 / 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Southwest Face 5 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Elevation: 1,590 ft
GPS: 30.51, -98.809 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,503 total · 192/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

Description

With the longest approach of any area in the park, climbing at Buzzard’s Roost is as remote as anywhere in Enchanted Rock State Park. When approaching the park on FM 965 Buzzard’s Roost is the first formation you pass. If you look close, you may be able to see climbers on the East Face. Most of the climbing consists of face and crack climbs. There are a handful of bolts here and there, as well as a couple of bolted sport routes, but the majority are trad lines. Climbing is found in three areas: the Southwest Wall, Southeast Wall, and the East Face. The climbing on the Southwest Wall is scattered amongst the boulders on the dome, while the Southeast Wall and the East Face both offer a good concentration of climbs. Differentiating the various routes can be difficult. Must do climbs on Buzzard’s Roost are Eat (5.10a) and Fear of Flying (5.10). A good place to climb on busy days when the other areas are mobbed.
Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Getting There

To reach Buzzard’s Roost, follow the Loop Trail along the right (east side) of Sandy Creek. During the dry season, you can also hike up the creek bed. Follow the Loop Trail past the group pavilion and Freshman Mountain to a point just south of Buzzard’s Roost. The loop trail will fork left while the trail to the primitive camping area will continue straight. To reach the Southwest Face, follow the Loop Trail until you’re between Freshman and Buzzard’s. Pick your way to the base of the slabs, and then head up to the blocky boulders that make up the face. To reach the Southeast Wall and East Face, you can scramble along the slabs, pass under the lower boulders, and hike back up to the face. Alternatively, from the Loop Trail you can continue up Sandy Creek until you’re below your choice of areas, and then pick your way through the brush to the wall (some bush whacking required). If you’re coming from the Backside, continue following the Backside Trail north of Freshman Mountain to the intersection with the Loop Trail and turn left.

32 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buzzard's Roost

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dan Jam
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Feat
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bush Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eat
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rope Eater
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Texas Crude
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go)
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
P.G. 13
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The Wick
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquatic Anxiety
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dan Jam Southwest Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Little Feat E Face of Buzzard's Roost 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bush Crack Southwest Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Eat Southeast Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rope Eater Southwest Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Texas Crude E Face of Buzzard's Roost 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Little Hans (aka. Conspirac… E Face of Buzzard's Roost 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
P.G. 13 Southeast Face 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fear of Flying E Face of Buzzard's Roost 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Wick Southeast Face 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Aquatic Anxiety E Face of Buzzard's Roost 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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