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Routes in Riding Hood Wall

Big Bad Wolf S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lil' Red T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Over the Hill to Grandmother's House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Physical Graffiti T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Riding Hood T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Logerquist, Williamson '70
Page Views: 5,435 total, 32/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Feb 17, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Another good route on the Riding Hood Wall. Over the Hill is the crack climb that pulls through a roof with black rock, right of Physical Graffiti. Many people only do the quality first pitch, and then rappel.

P1) Make sure to protect the beginning moves well. This is the crux and the landing is not great. Pull through the roof crack with varnished rock. Continue up easier climbing to some slings in the crack for a belay.

P2) Continue up the same crack system for a full rope length to the top.

Descent: Rap off west to a gully, then downclimb the gully.

Protection

Standard Rack
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.9-
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.9-
Did the left roof crack. Fun & well protected. If you go that way, watch for rope drag turning from the ramp to the vertical crack. Mine got caught under the lip and I had about 50 lbs of rope drag at the top of the climb. Extend those pieces and keep the rope to the left of the crack. Nov 22, 2016
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
 
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
 
I didn't find the top section boring at all! Fun, easier climbing through some jamming and stemming. I climbed almost 30m to a two bolt anchor on the left and lowered. Feb 6, 2016
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
 
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
 
We did the right variation. Pulling the roof felt indeed burly. Probably more like a 5.10 move. Dec 3, 2015
Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
a great option for this route is to veer left about 15' above the roof and face climb directly to the Physical Graffiti anchor - this eliminates the easy sandy crack and you can then lower to the ground for TR'ing. Obviously it's a tad runout, but you can get a bomber red C3 about half way up between two plates. Apr 9, 2013
I agree with Josh. Left side is casual, right is burly. Both lots of fun, rap with a single rope or finish up P.G. Dec 29, 2011
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
Left side was 5.9- IMHO.
Right side was 5.10.

josh Oct 30, 2011
cragsavvy
Salt Lake City
cragsavvy   Salt Lake City
really fun! you can also top rope it from the top of the first pitch of physical graffiti Apr 17, 2011
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.9+
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.9+
This route is REALLY fun through the roof sections and then gets REALLY easy (read boring) to the slings that are jammed in the crack. I would strongly encourage doing the right line through the fist crack. It protects perfectly with a #4 and #3 Camalot, and you can get a solid stance below the roof using the undercling to place these pieces deep in the crack. Strong moves get you over the roof! =)

MM Nov 13, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
Another option, if this start is too intimidating is to step left about 15' and climb through the other side of the roof. Although it is also 5.9+, it is more secure and much less strenuous. Jun 19, 2005