Elevation: 600 ft
GPS: 30.288, -97.726 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 53,904 total · 38,522/month
Shared By: Hunter R on Apr 8, 2019 with improvements by Jesse Bruni
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

Description

Have you ever thought to yourself: "Gosh, I'd love to live in a city with great live music, tacos for breakfast, over 100 boulder problems and sport routes less than a mile from your office, spring fed pools at a year round 65 degrees, eccentric locals, thirty million college students, traffic as far as the eye can see at all times, homeless people at every light, 400 days a year of 100+ degree weather and 85% humidity, rain only on the weekends, all the crags are secret, or on on private land, or are prone to collapsing on a massive scale at any given time, and/or made of a rock type that has a frictional coefficient approaching -infinity, and everything is graded V4 and 5.10-"????Well look no further than Austin, Texas!

Nestled deep in the heart of Texas, Austin is home to such classics as "F*** Nut" a V2 so polished, sandbagged, and low to the ground you'll swear that you overpaid when you were charged $6 admission to the park. Or if sport climbing is more your thing have a gander at "Slimy Crack". A 5.9 that answers the question, "What would it look like if you took the worst route in the world and smeared all the holds with Crisco?". If that doesn't quite satisfy you, take the 30 minute drive out to Reimers Ranch where you can climb well bolted routes with nice movement as you wonder whether the helmet you spent $70 on at the local REI will protect you in the not-without-precedent event of the entire wall collapsing.

Prefer trad? Check out Enchanted Rock, only 2.5 hours west. The only trad location west of the Mississippi that can definitively answer the question "Is trad better when you're being cooked alive?" Or maybe you're here for the deep water soloing? Well don't let the zebra mussels, brown water, drunk college students, or slime covered holds deter you. The lines at Maugham cove at Pace Bend park are (literally?) to die for! Steep, athletic, gymnastic, aesthetic, and the massive blocks lurking two feet below the surface remind you to commit to that dyno!If none of those options appeal to you then perhaps you'd prefer to check out the indoor bouldering at Austin Bouldering Project. Don't let the horde of drunk hipsters that have been trickling in from the neighboring "Austin East Cider's" fool you as they stand directly underneath you as you climb on your project. This gym may look like gumby central, and it might feature the softest V0-V6's in the free world, but thanks to the tried and true "circuit grading system" you still won't ever climb harder than "V7+" in this building. Or head on over to Crux Climbing Center for some rope climbing and finally achieve your goals of not getting pumped while you sport climb, as you run lap after glorious lap on the 25 foot tall walls.

Yes, Austin really does have it all!

Getting There

I-35 runs directly through downtown Austin and is the best approach when coming in from the North and South. Expect Traffic at all hours and random drops in speed from 75mph to 10mph every few miles. North of Austin between Georgetown and Waco, I-35 is under construction, as it was for our fathers, and their fathers before them, and will remain under construction long after our bones have turned to dust. Expect Traffic.Highway 290 is the preferred approach from the West and East. Austin Bergstrom International Airport is less than 10 miles from McKinney Falls State Park, 20 minutes from the Barton Creek Greenbelt, and an hour from Reimers Ranch.

862 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Austin Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 171
Eight Flake
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
Bird Dog
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
My Name is Mud
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 97
Over Easy
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 61
Water Ballet
Sport, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 63
Dead Cats
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 159
Prototype
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 59
T-Roofic Detour
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 84
Diving for Rocks
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 47
Carnival
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 50
Through the Looking Glass
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 61
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 46
Crankenstien
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
Liposuction
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 53
Yertle the Turtle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Eight Flake Reimers Ranch > Dr. Seuss / Prototype…
 171
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bird Dog Barton Creek Gr… > Seismic Wall A.K.A. M…
 67
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
My Name is Mud Reimers Ranch > Dead Cats
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Over Easy Barton Creek Gr… > Seismic Wall A.K.A. M…
 97
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Water Ballet Reimers Ranch > Dead Cats
 61
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Dead Cats Reimers Ranch > Dead Cats
 63
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Prototype Reimers Ranch > Dr. Seuss / Prototype…
 159
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
T-Roofic Detour Reimers Ranch > T-Roofic Wall
 59
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Diving for Rocks Barton Creek Gr… > Seismic Wall A.K.A. M…
 84
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Carnival Reimer's Ranch… > Carnival Wall
 47
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Through the Looking Glass Barton Creek Gr… > New Wall > Great Wall
 50
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey Reimers Ranch > Dr. Seuss / Prototype…
 61
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crankenstien Reimers Ranch > Crankenstein
 46
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Liposuction Reimers Ranch > Sex Cave
 81
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Yertle the Turtle Reimers Ranch > Dr. Seuss / Prototype…
 53
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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Chris Tarbet
Austin, TX
Chris Tarbet   Austin, TX
Is it too much to ask for a description of "Austin Area Climbing" to be written by someone whom doesn't despise the area as much? Sure, there are elements of truth woven amidst the exaggeration and humor, but for every "polished" or "smeared . . . with crisco" route, there's a gem waiting for one to send. 1 day ago