Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cheap Beer Wall

Icehouses S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lone Star TallBoy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey's Big Mouth T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milwaukee's Beast S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Dog S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Schlitz My Liquor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Dave Phillips
Page Views: 224 total, 5/month
Shared By: AP on Mar 21, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The obvious dihedral crack that starts at the ledge and continues up to a set of anchors. Currently, this route is set for TR. So you can lead Milwaukee's best and set up a TR from there. Or another option is to lead it trad (ok protection). There are a couple of decent placements...but not great.

Location

On obvious crack system. Only one on the wall.

Protection

TR...or if leading Trad, 3 to 4 pieces...Standard Rack. I've done this with nuts and cams.

Photos

- No Photos -
Robert Michael  
  5.6
I do not recommend leading this one on gear.

After first leading the 5.7 to the left, I set a TR on this one and did a solo TR. In my opinion, this route is the easier of the two even though both are 5.7.

After that, keeping the TR as backup since I was suspicious of the rock quality, I "led" this. I didn't have trouble finding decent gear placements, but for most of the route, the rock has that scary hollow sound to it, and I wouldn't want to fall on gear here, especially a cam.

Just my two cents. Sep 14, 2016
AP
 
AP  
 
So I lead this on trad, just messing around. It's not a great trad route...but if your looking to make this route interesting, you can bring a few pieces of pro.

I used a #3 down below (sketchy, lobes were definitely not even)
then a #10 nut in a vertical slot...pretty solid
then a #1 in a horizontal on the right wall under a small roof (ok)
then a #2 in a horizontal slot below the anchors (solid) Mar 21, 2014