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Routes in Willow Springs South

Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geezer's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gimp's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Black Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lucky Charms T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillar Talk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Senior Moment T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wheat Thick T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dustin Wilkinson, Dan Briley, Cassondra Long--08/29/2009
Page Views: 1,315 total · 25/month
Shared By: cassondra long on Feb 24, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Tip toe right of the crack on a thin rail, grab the pockets and SMEAR! Thus begins the enjoyable movement that is Above and Beyond. Follow the pockets left and right of the crack, then reach way out right to swing into the large hueco. Continue up and slightly left through the thin plates, then easily to the top.

Same anchor spot as Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.

Fun, technical climbing on some very nice varnish makes this beautiful route a fine bonus after climbing Pillar Talk below it.

Location

Located above Pillar Talk, next to Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.
Descent is the same as for CTF

Protection

Single rack to #3 Camalot (Yes, the #3 goes in passive mode in a hole by the big hueco)
nuts
trad anchor

Photos

A really fine route. Been a long time since I've been on it, but I would say it's easily four stars or better. Feb 25, 2014
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
This is a really nice route. Mar 20, 2014
mmacelhi
Gunks
  5.9
mmacelhi   Gunks
  5.9
great advice on the open #2 in the hole. Coming from the gunks, that was a new technique that i used elsewhere in RR. cool moves all through although unfortunately too short. staying left of the main line is harder and more interesting but doesn't protect real well so consider a TR run after your lead May 7, 2014
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
 
The #3 seems initially okay to go passive in the hueco, but careful inspection reveals it's a tad manky. Sep 3, 2014

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