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Routes in Willow Springs South

Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geezer's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gimp's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Black Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillar Talk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Senior Moment T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Herbst & Friends 1977
Page Views: 467 total, 10/month
Shared By: Flavaflav on Mar 6, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start in a small choss cave, stemming up on a few good edges and smears to a burly move with an odd under cling to a tiny crack/corner for balance. Sandbagged, but with a #5 cam you can figure it out without commitment. Follow the crack starting without feet, or go right over questionable rock to the next ledge. The occasional solid jug gives you some security while stepping on marginal rock. Build belay in the cave, as the trees are looking fairly shabby. On the next pitch, stem up and follow the corner with odd placements, a short section with laybacks on varnished jugs takes you to a ledge with a big tree. Belay from crack behind tree.

The bad: loose rock laying everywhere, and loose rock on route.

The good: interesting figuring out the crux beginning, and pushing through the juggy laybacky section up top, "interesting" descent.

Location

Large corner/chamber to the right of Nadia's Nine, not so visible from Lost Creek Parking Area. Go left at trail intersection, follow wash for a bit, join up with the red trail that follows the cliffs. As the cliff starts to turn, you should see the first big corner. Take the path of least resistance up to it.

Getting down was interesting. Unrope at big tree, scramble up the harder than expected hueco crack to climber's right with bush, then scramble up around the rock with a tunnel under it, then down to the right to a stout short tree with a cord in place. One rappel down past a dead tree with a nylon sling to a good platform will lead you to a bushy albeit easy scramble down past a very large tree. 60m would be fine, rope surprisingly pulls easy. Rapping from here is unnecessary, just be careful of all the desert plants. Continue 50 or so yards to the right to the start of the climb.

Protection

standard rack to #5 Camalot, used a fair amount of nuts. Couple alpine draws for wandering pro, mostly quickdraws are fine for extension. Bring sling/rap equipment to back up one rappel. Helmets if you want to continue your climbing career without holes in your head.

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