Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: FRA- C. Long and D.McNair
Page Views: 5,254 total · 38/month
Shared By: cassondra l on Apr 14, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Deliciously steep and highly aesthetic, Chocolate Tranquility Fountain is a worthwhile objective after climbing any of the routes in the vicinity of Pillar Talk. Located on the level where the lower routes top out, this line is hidden inside a chimney on the beautifully varnished and heavily pocketed Supra Ultra Wall.

From a rectangular block, climb up into the chimney on light colored rock to reach a finger crack running up through solution pockets on the righthand wall. Enjoyable climbing on interesting features leads to a flake where the crack ends (crux.) Continue past a thin horizontal seam as the angle eases and holds get bigger toward the top. Spread out and relax on the comfy belay platform. Walk off (mostly 3rd class with a few 4th class moves.)

Location

Chocolate Tranquility Fountain is situated about half way between the tops of N'Plus Ultra and Pillar Talk, 100 or so feet back. Although most of the route is hidden from view, the exposed right side of the Supra Ultra Wall, on which it is located, is clearly visible from the parking lot. Supra Ultra Wall is easily identified by a short, right-slanting finger crack and odd looking pockets which constitute the line of Above and Beyond (5.9,) a route several feet to the right of CTF. Both routes may be accessed by climbing any of the routes in the Pillar Talk area, or by scrambling up the walkoff of N'Plus Ultra.

To descend from Chocolate Tranquility Fountain, head climber's left directly from the belay (south)and step over the head of the chimney. Then continue south and scramble down past a hole, and continue further down and a bit left to a pine tree on a ledge with a cairn. Go left (north) a short way on the ledge and around the front of a huge boulder (another cairn.) Circle back north and west to reach the base of the wall (about 5 minutes). Rappel Sleeper with a 70m rope (just barely makes it to the ground with stretch) or walk off N'Plus Ultra on the left (south.)

Protection

Single rack to 3", C-3s or TCUs down to 00 are helpful
gear anchor

Photos