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Routes in Willow Springs South

Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geezer's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gimp's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Black Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillar Talk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Senior Moment T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FRA- C. Long and D.McNair
Page Views: 3,330 total, 36/month
Shared By: cassondra long on Apr 14, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Deliciously steep and highly aesthetic, Chocolate Tranquility Fountain is a worthwhile objective after climbing any of the routes in the vicinity of Pillar Talk. Located on the level where the lower routes top out, this line is hidden inside a chimney on the beautifully varnished and heavily pocketed Supra Ultra Wall.

From a rectangular block, climb up into the chimney on light colored rock to reach a finger crack running up through solution pockets on the righthand wall. Enjoyable climbing on interesting features leads to a flake where the crack ends (crux.) Continue past a thin horizontal seam as the angle eases and holds get bigger toward the top. Spread out and relax on the comfy belay platform. Walk off (mostly 3rd class with a few 4th class moves.)

Location

Chocolate Tranquility Fountain is situated about half way between the tops of N'Plus Ultra and Pillar Talk, 100 or so feet back. Although most of the route is hidden from view, the exposed right side of the Supra Ultra Wall, on which it is located, is clearly visible from the parking lot. Supra Ultra Wall is easily identified by a short, right-slanting finger crack and odd looking pockets which constitute the line of Above and Beyond (5.9,) a route several feet to the right of CTF. Both routes may be accessed by climbing any of the routes in the Pillar Talk area, or by scrambling up the walkoff of N'Plus Ultra.

To descend from Chocolate Tranquility Fountain, head climber's left directly from the belay (south)and step over the head of the chimney. Then continue south and scramble down past a hole, and continue further down and a bit left to a pine tree on a ledge with a cairn. Go left (north) a short way on the ledge and around the front of a huge boulder (another cairn.) Circle back north and west to reach the base of the wall (about 5 minutes). Rappel Sleeper with a 70m rope (just barely makes it to the ground with stretch) or walk off N'Plus Ultra on the left (south.)

Protection

Single rack to 3", C-3s or TCUs down to 00 are helpful
gear anchor

Photos

Kyle D
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Kyle D   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
A beautifully featured line that takes whatever gear you throw at it. I only wish it were longer. Oct 23, 2017
TeresaS  
This is my second time in this route, thank you Cassondra for such and awesome find!! This is a fun, challenging 5.7 on delicious rock!! Sep 11, 2015
Way to go Idaho! It sounds like you got on the line further up the ramp from CTF, Headless Chocolate Bunny 5.6. Dan Young told me about the friend, which I had previously thought was just webbing, indicating activity from long ago. May 23, 2014
mmacelhi
  5.7
mmacelhi  
  5.7
highly improbable when you look up there from pillar talk but lots of fun. just when you think it looks hard for a .7, big jug or jam. voila! May 7, 2014
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.7
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.7
There is an old friend jammed in the crack just above the crux. And just where I wanted to do a jam. A very nice route, good place to use those tri-cams and hexes. Apr 20, 2014
Ben Townsend  
 
Wonderful climb. The walk-off only adds to the experience, as it navigates easily through some very unlikely-looking terrain. Apr 17, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
A true gem- easily the best single pitch of 5.7 i've done lately. Well worth the effort! Nice find. Feb 22, 2014
Fun, worthwhile route-excellent for fairly new leaders, easy walkoff left.

Knowing that you can rap from the Sleeper tree with a 70 makes this one that much more doable. A fun linkup might be Pillar Talk to Chocolate Trandquility, walk down to a single rap.

If you're a local moderate climber and haven't done this yet, go check it out. Fun stuff, modern 5.7. Nov 2, 2011
jblackattack blac
las vegas, nv
  5.7
jblackattack blac   las vegas, nv
  5.7
A hidden gem, short but sweet! If you do any of the routes on the lower Pillar talk area don't forget to take a short walk up and knock this one out. May 23, 2010
raygay
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7
raygay   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7
I concur with Cassondra. This is route is worth doing if you are in the neighborhood. The first 40 feet are steep, but delight with positive holds and good protection opportunities. Two cracks,1 to 4" wide, at the back of the belay ledge at the top of the pitch provide good places for cam anchors. May 21, 2010