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Routes in Willow Springs South

Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geezer's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gimp's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Black Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillar Talk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Senior Moment T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,199 total, 13/month
Shared By: rockratrei on Jun 28, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The crack 5 ft to the left of Senior Moment.
Climb the varnished crack to the rotten over hang, then traverse left 15 ft on white rock up through the slot in the bulge.

Location

To desend, traverse 20 ft across a large ledge to a 2 bolt anchcor.

Protection

SR

Photos

I thought this 5.6 sport pitch to the left was excellent. And doesn't encroach on the Lucky Charms at all in my opinion. Also, the pro and anchor bolts all appear to be in solid rock. I tapped on the rock at the anchor (because I thought it also looked suspect), and it sounded great. Definitely worth the run-up for a new leader. Oct 14, 2017
Climbed this yesterday...felt 5.6. Someone had very recently added a 5.6 sport route up the huecos just left with a new rap anchor in the softish white rock at the crux exit slot.. not the safest looking permanent anchor and pretty rude encroachment on a trad climb!? We also climbed a pleasant 25m slab exit up and right (about 5.4R) so we could link to the amazing Chocolate Tranquility Fountain, 5.7, just up above. Dec 11, 2015
William Fry
Kalispell, MT
William Fry   Kalispell, MT
When you say a #4 cam at the bulge, How big is a #4 cam? Thank you. Mar 18, 2013
Ron Graham  
 
This route is tons of fun, but it feels more like it should be rated 5.5 or 5.6 than 5.7. It has tons of good holds and protects well from bottom to top. The hardest moves are the final ones as you climb up through the bulge to the finish ledge. The bulge protects well with a #4 cam, and you can also sling a jug handle below the bulge. There's no need to traverse very far to rappel the route; an anchor has been tied to a bush just East of where you top out. The route can be rappeled with a single 60 meter rope. Oct 21, 2011