Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,345 total · 13/month
Shared By: rockratrei on Jun 28, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


The crack 5 ft to the left of Senior Moment.
Climb the varnished crack to the rotten over hang, then traverse left 15 ft on white rock up through the slot in the bulge.


To desend, traverse 20 ft across a large ledge to a 2 bolt anchcor.




Ron Graham  
This route is tons of fun, but it feels more like it should be rated 5.5 or 5.6 than 5.7. It has tons of good holds and protects well from bottom to top. The hardest moves are the final ones as you climb up through the bulge to the finish ledge. The bulge protects well with a #4 cam, and you can also sling a jug handle below the bulge. There's no need to traverse very far to rappel the route; an anchor has been tied to a bush just East of where you top out. The route can be rappeled with a single 60 meter rope. Oct 21, 2011
William Fry
Kalispell, MT
William Fry   Kalispell, MT
When you say a #4 cam at the bulge, How big is a #4 cam? Thank you. Mar 18, 2013
Climbed this yesterday...felt 5.6. Someone had very recently added a 5.6 sport route up the huecos just left with a new rap anchor in the softish white rock at the crux exit slot.. not the safest looking permanent anchor and pretty rude encroachment on a trad climb!? We also climbed a pleasant 25m slab exit up and right (about 5.4R) so we could link to the amazing Chocolate Tranquility Fountain, 5.7, just up above. Dec 11, 2015
I thought this 5.6 sport pitch to the left was excellent. And doesn't encroach on the Lucky Charms at all in my opinion. Also, the pro and anchor bolts all appear to be in solid rock. I tapped on the rock at the anchor (because I thought it also looked suspect), and it sounded great. Definitely worth the run-up for a new leader. Oct 14, 2017