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Routes in Willow Springs South

Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geezer's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gimp's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Black Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lucky Charms T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillar Talk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Senior Moment T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wheat Thick T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Herbst and Grandstaff 1975-76
Page Views: 1,946 total · 10/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Oct 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route goes out the obvious splitter crack in the 15-20ft roof just south and east of the parking lot. The roof is very obvious. To acess the roof scramble up an easy 5th class gully, climbers left, some people will want a belay up this section. There is a good ledge at the start of the roof, you'll want a small selection of gear to build an anchor here. climb out the Fist crack doing approximately 3 fist moves before gaining jugs.

Descend by going south and east to the obvious gully- it's a walk off.

Protection

Cams! Take a couple of each from #3-#4.5 Camalots (old-style).

Photos

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a
A total hoot circus trick climb. I have not done it in 25 years but I recall with one big cam to start and a couple 2.5-3.5 inches at the end you could climb it safely. Huge jugs at the roof exit. Near the lip you can get great leg jam and hang for a fun upside down shot. Mar 20, 2012

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