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Above and Beyond

5.9, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 30 votes
FA: Dustin Wilkinson, Dan Briley, Cassondra Long--08/29/2009
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (07) Willow Spring > Willow Springs South
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

Tip toe right of the crack on a thin rail, grab the pockets and SMEAR! Thus begins the enjoyable movement that is Above and Beyond. Follow the pockets left and right of the crack, then reach way out right to swing into the large hueco. Continue up and slightly left through the thin plates, then easily to the top.

Same anchor spot as Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.

Fun, technical climbing on some very nice varnish makes this beautiful route a fine bonus after climbing Pillar Talk below it.

Location

Located above Pillar Talk, next to Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.
Descent is the same as for CTF

Protection

Single rack to #3 Camalot (Yes, the #3 goes in passive mode in a hole by the big hueco)
nuts
trad anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Above and Beyond 5.9 on the Supra Ultra Wall
[Hide Photo] Above and Beyond 5.9 on the Supra Ultra Wall
Closer view. Positive features, but not obvious until you're on the route.
[Hide Photo] Closer view. Positive features, but not obvious until you're on the route.
Above and Beyond 5.9
[Hide Photo] Above and Beyond 5.9
John climbing Above and Beyond. Photo by Gigi.
[Hide Photo] John climbing Above and Beyond. Photo by Gigi.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] A really fine route. Been a long time since I've been on it, but I would say it's easily four stars or better. Feb 25, 2014
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] This is a really nice route. Mar 20, 2014
mmacelhi
Gunks
  5.9
[Hide Comment] great advice on the open #2 in the hole. Coming from the gunks, that was a new technique that i used elsewhere in RR. cool moves all through although unfortunately too short. staying left of the main line is harder and more interesting but doesn't protect real well so consider a TR run after your lead May 7, 2014
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The #3 seems initially okay to go passive in the hueco, but careful inspection reveals it's a tad manky. Sep 3, 2014
Michael Bee
NorCal
 
[Hide Comment] I found this route to suck up nuts kinda like Panty Raid. Bring your nut rack and go bananas! Mar 25, 2022
[Hide Comment] Solid climb with some steep, big moves on jugs that eased after you start climbing huecos. Can use your same gear anchor for Chocolate Tranquility Fountain with a few directional cams. Jun 6, 2023