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Above and Beyond
5.9,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 30
votes
FA: Dustin Wilkinson, Dan Briley, Cassondra Long--08/29/2009
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (07) Willow Spring
> Willow Springs South
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Tip toe right of the crack on a thin rail, grab the pockets and SMEAR! Thus begins the enjoyable movement that is Above and Beyond. Follow the pockets left and right of the crack, then reach way out right to swing into the large hueco. Continue up and slightly left through the thin plates, then easily to the top.
Same anchor spot as Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.
Fun, technical climbing on some very nice varnish makes this beautiful route a fine bonus after climbing Pillar Talk below it.
Location
Located above Pillar Talk, next to Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.
Descent is the same as for CTF
Protection
Single rack to #3 Camalot (Yes, the #3 goes in passive mode in a hole by the big hueco)
nuts
trad anchor
[Hide Photo] Above and Beyond 5.9 on the Supra Ultra Wall
[Hide Photo] Closer view. Positive features, but not obvious until you're on the route.
Las Vegas, NV
Gunks
Costa Mesa, CA
NorCal