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Routes in Willow Springs South

Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geezer's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gimp's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Black Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillar Talk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Senior Moment T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unknown 1 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wheat Thick T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
unknown 2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Landaker, Jim Whitesell, Marke Moore, Joe Herbst 1973
Page Views: 4,135 total · 25/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Jul 13, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Pillar Talk is located on the tall white pillar to the south of and directly across from the first parking lot in Willow Springs. Approach by heading down the Hidden Falls trail, take the SMYC Trail that branches to the left and as you cross the wash cut right and head straight for the feature up faint trails. Alternatively, you can approach as per Hidden Falls Wall and once there, contour to the left, east, around the base of the crags for about 100 yards.

This route gets an R rating from the guide books for the 5.4 run-out on pitch 2. We felt this section to be an easy jaunt up low angle slabs with a few opportunities for protection.

Pitch 1: On the right side of the pillar, climb the crack through wide sections. At the roof, do a fun hand traverse left on to the arête. Move up the face to belay in a crack above some tall grass. (5.7, 150 feet)

Pitch 2: Continue up the white face on balls, to the top of the pillar. (5.4 PG, 50 feet)

Variation: On pitch 1, rather than traversing left, climb the crack through the roof then catch up the regular route that is to the left. (5.10b)

Descent: Go right and rappel with a single 70 meter rope or two ropes from slings around a pine tree. This is the top of the route Sleeper.


Standard rack to #4 Camalot, doubles in #3 and #3.5 help.
Ron Graham
Ron Graham  
This climb is tons of fun! It's shaded in the morning, so it can even be climbed in the middle of the summer (we did!) The crux is probably about 2/3 the way up the crack where some awkward moves are required to get past a protrusion. The face on the left has lots of great holds, but offers little or no protection. The face on the right offers few holds until the angle of it backs off just below the roof. The traverse below the roof might look scary from the ground, but has lots of finger and toe holds and is one of the funnest parts of the climb. This climb can easily be done with a single 60 meter rope. Rather than rappel it, scramble left at the top until you find a cairned ramp back down to the base of the cliff. Jul 26, 2010
Sleeper raps nicely with a 70 to a low ledge that has a short, easy downclimb or optional second rap (12 feet or so) to the base. Way more pleasant than the walkoff.

This is a fun route but if you believe that 5.7 bit, I've got some property to sell you on the Brooklyn Bridge....

2nd pitch is heads up-easy climbing, but if you fell off of it or broke a hold, you might be PGing yourself into an ICU. Climb light. Jan 30, 2012
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
I have to agree with SP/S on this. Its been years since I did this, but I remember getting a little gripped on the easy climbing on the second pitch. While there is a little gear there, the rock is very soft and if not careful you could go for one hell of a ride. Feb 14, 2013
Awesome!!! Loved every minute of it!!! Must do!!! Hiked up to Chocolate Tranquility to make it a 3 pitch excursion and this is absolutely the way to go!!! So much fun!!! Hike down a ways and rap from unknown 5.8 area Nov 10, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
An okay route. Pretty blue collar 5.7, imho. Worth doing if for no other reason than to link with Chocolate Tranquility Fountain. Feb 22, 2014
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
What does "blue collar" mean when describing a route? Mar 20, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
Physical in nature, imho, a whole body workout. Wide stuff is usually the quintessential blue collar experience. Mar 20, 2014
mmacelhi   Gunks
some challenging and thoughtful climbing, especially for my first day on RR sandstone in 8 years. we had the entire South Willow springs to ourselves on easter saturday so thats a plus too. best approach comes from a bit further east down the wash May 7, 2014
Mike Zasadzien
  5.7 R
Mike Zasadzien  
  5.7 R
Fun climb, definitely more mental than physical, quite a bit run-out for the traverse and afterwards. Plug in gear as high as you can beforehand, and make the extremely enjoyable moves over. There's a crumbly pocket to possibly fit a #2 into right after the traverse [left mine lower down, so, can't confirm but really wished I had it since a 1 was too small], but blank for gear otherwise [maybe sling a horn somewhere?]. Otherwise I had to run it out past the bushes another 15 feet up compounded with nothing during the moves over, which make it unnerving to say the least. A second 4 would have been nice during the early section, but a 5 isn't wholly necessary, as I didn't have either. Nov 7, 2016
Kyle D
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
Kyle D   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
Climbed this route to get to Chocolate Tranquility Fountain and I found P2 to be pretty sketchy. I got a couple of pieces in down low, but the majority of the climbing was unprotected on soft / crumbly rock. Fortunately it is a pretty short pitch.

The climbing on P1 was fun, especially the traverse under the roof, but it was a bit more work than I was expecting for a 5.7. Probably not the best climb for a new trad leader. Oct 23, 2017
North Las Vegas
Rprops   North Las Vegas
For anyone trying the OW roof above:
I had a 4,5,6 camalot. Would have preferred to swap the 6 for another 4 or 5.
Awesome climbing, very gymnastic, feet cutting fun 60 feet off the deck.

I didn't send but it felt more 11a than 10a (but totally safe). Apr 9, 2018
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
Easily a 2 to 3-star route. Very fun; didn't find it to be all that 'blue-collar' Oct 17, 2018

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