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Routes in Willow Springs South
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Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cereal Killer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chutes and Ladders T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Count Chocula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Pin-etration T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geezer's Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gimpy Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Headless Chocolate Bunny T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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High and Dry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Honey Combs S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Little Black Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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New Hips Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pillar Talk T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Senior Moment T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Well and Good T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wheat Thick T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.15467, -115.49623 |
| FA: | John Landaker, Jim Whitesell, Marke Moore, Joe Herbst 1973 |
| Page Views: | 8,434 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | John Hegyes on Jul 13, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Pillar Talk is located on the tall white pillar to the south of and directly across from the first parking lot in Willow Springs. Approach by heading down the Hidden Falls trail, take the SMYC Trail that branches to the left and as you cross the wash cut right and head straight for the feature up faint trails. Alternatively, you can approach as per Hidden Falls Wall and once there, contour to the left, east, around the base of the crags for about 100 yards.
This route gets an R rating from the guide books for the 5.4 run-out on pitch 2. We felt this section to be an easy jaunt up low angle slabs with a few opportunities for protection.
Pitch 1: On the right side of the pillar, climb the crack through wide sections. At the roof, do a fun hand traverse left on to the arête. Move up the face to belay at a bolted anchor below some tall grass. (5.7, 150 feet)
Pitch 2: Continue up the white face on balls, to the top of the pillar. (5.4 PG, 50 feet)
Variation: On pitch 1, rather than traversing left, climb the crack through the roof then catch up the regular route that is to the left. (5.10b)
Descent: Go right and rappel with a single 70 meter rope or two ropes from slings around a pine tree. This is the top of the route Sleeper. Or, skip the not too interesting second pitch and rap on rings from the anchor
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