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Routes in Willow Springs South

Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geezer's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gimp's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Black Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillar Talk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Senior Moment T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unknown 1 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wheat Thick T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
unknown 2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,159 total · 14/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


P1 - start under a roof problem off the ground (crux) into a giant open book, make your way left
into another crack through a bulge.


Start around the corner left of Pillar Talk.
Decend: Rap off the anchor on top of Sleeper with
two ropes.




cassondra long  
We bouldered past the start and belayed from the bottom of the huge crack to reduce rope drag.On a very windy day, this made a nice cozy belay spot. At the top, this route shares the same belay with Senior Moment. There is one move near the top that seems a bit harder than 5.4. At this time, there are webbing and rings at the top on a stout bush. If one has a single 70m rope, a rappel can be made from Sleeper that just makes it to the ground with rope stretch. Additionally, these routes can all be walked off to the left of N plus ultra. There are a number of cairns marking the walk-off south past the Room With a View. I believe these to be marking a hiking trail as well as the walk-off. There are one or two almost 4th class moves on this walk-off, and just enough exposure to cause significant injury in the case of a misstep. Nov 16, 2009
Tony Whitney
Las Vegas, NV
Tony Whitney   Las Vegas, NV
This route is a lot of fun. It has a couple of moves that seem just a little hard for 5.4, but it protects well enough to zipper it up. The hardest move will be the start if the cheater tree ever goes away. When faced with a choice to go right towards the corner or left through a small bulge at about 25 feet, go left through the bulge. It is a long route and used all but about 6 feet of my 60m rope. There are rap rings on a stout bush on top, but the crack at the top seems like a real rope eater. We rappelled from the top of sleeper which was a much better choice. You definitely need two ropes. My 70m rope would not have made it even with rope stretch. Nov 29, 2014

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