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Routes in Willow Springs South

Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geezer's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gimp's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Black Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillar Talk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Senior Moment T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Herbst and Mark Moore, 1977
Page Views: 6,325 total · 37/month
Shared By: L. Hamilton on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

See photo for exact location, about 100 yards to the left and slightly lower than Nadia's Niche. The climb's distinctive feature is an overhanging, cobra-hooded dihedral that forms the second pitch. Both pitches are well-protected and interesting.Pitch 1 -- Climb a smooth-walled dark V-corner with good rock (5.9+).Pitch 2 -- Move the belay a few yards to the right, then climb a prominent, steep inside corner/crack that overhangs at the top (5.9).

Protection

No fixed gear. Bring a varied rack, from small wires to 4" cam.
Yes, a fun climb, but if you are not experienced with steep roofs and hand cracks it feels a lot harder than 5.10a! Nov 21, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.9
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Superb value for the grade. Bullet rock on the first pitch and pretty good on second pitch. I used almost every conceivable climbing technique on this route. The moves are fun and the exposure is wild for such a short route! Highly recommended. My followers were both beginning trad climbers and found the route very challenging. 4-5" cam is good to back up second pitch shrub anchor. Jan 12, 2015
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Climbed this yesterday with good friends. The first pitch is one of the best pitches I've climbed anywhere. It has excellent protection (I think I placed a nut every 4 feet or so through the lower corner), technical moves on solid rock, and it requires a nice variety of technique. Gaining the chimney/corner above the p1 roof is an interesting exercise in flexibility and positioning! Jan 6, 2014
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
I was under the impression this was a clever play on words and sports about Nadia Comaneci, the famous Romanian gymnast known for scoring the first perfect 10 at the 1976 Olympics. The route FA was in 1977.

You could be the stingy judge that gave her a 9 but everyone else would know her performance was really a 10. Hence this routes provenance. You can call it a 5.9 but when you climb it you will know it is really a 5.10. Apr 12, 2013
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
George-- story is here:

pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/climb…
rockclimbing.com/forum/Clim… Apr 12, 2013
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
"Nadia's Ten" seems more appropriate, since that was her score. @John, it seems that Joe did rate the route 5.9, or else what is the nine in the route name for? Or is Joe's original name of the route just "Nadia's"? Apr 12, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.9-
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.9-
The grade on this thing is kind of an enigma. I thought it was soft 5.9 when I first climbed it (yesterday) then felt it was 9+ish when I climbed it today. Either way, my partner I climbed both this and Frigid Air Buttress with thought this had moves harder than anything on FAB. Not too sure this thing has a single .10 move on it, buuuut hell...9+ is nebulous enough that it covers just about anything :)

Get on this climb and enjoy. 10 minute(ish) walk from the car, great after work climb. Apr 12, 2013
Canon
  5.10a
Canon  
  5.10a
WEAR HELMETS ON THIS ROUTE!!!! The ledge below the roof on P1 has loose rock, as does the P1 belay, and while pulling the rope I took a shot to the dome from a rock that would have given my noggin' a floggin' if I had not had a helmet on.

I am very sorry to say I A0'd the lower crux of this route. For some reason, the move did not occur to me until I was checking it out on TR, which made it A LOT easier. The roof was very contortonist, but had great jams to help me work my feet around. Dec 13, 2012
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.9+
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.9+
There are 2 distinct cruxes on pitch 1. If you figure out the "right" way to do them I believe the grade of 5.9 to be accurate, maybe 5.9+.
If you don't...its harder.
Looki around the cruxes are cryptic.

A very fun climb.

josh Apr 11, 2012
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Awesome!!! I found both pitches stout for their respective grades.

A set of C3s was great to have on pitch 1. I found them more useful than my MasterCams on the bottom half due to their excessively narrow camming profile (you will want this). Tell your second to drag the big pieces for pitch 2 up through the tight slot. :) A #5 was a must-have while charging the big crack up higher. I thought the #4 I brought was useless until I topped out and used it as a back-up for the tatty sling anchor. Nov 30, 2011
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10a
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10a
I climbed this route twice. Once retreating at the top of pitch one in a snowstorm and again to complete the route. Knowing where to go the second time dropped the rating by a solid number grade. On-sighting this was a real grunt for the grade. Nov 16, 2011
Tim Hadfield
Steamboat Springs, Co
Tim Hadfield   Steamboat Springs, Co
We met Mark Moore on the way up to tis route (the FA was done by Joe Herbst and him), and wished we would have picked his brain for beta. Definitely harder than the grade suggests... but a really fun route whatever the rating. Apr 30, 2011
Phil Esra
  5.10c
Phil Esra  
  5.10c
I found the p1 crux harder than those on Triassic Sands, Nightcrawler, Dreams of Wild Turkeys, Wholesome Fullback, Fiddler on the Roof, Yellow Brick Road. More like 10c than 5.9. Apr 24, 2011
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 


Perfect 10s. Dec 18, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
@Tavis- remembering that the route was named Nadia's Nine for Nadia Comaneci (thanks karsten), the romanian gymnast is key to realizing the true grade of the route. Joe never called this route a 5.9.... Dec 16, 2010
Tavis Ricksecker  
5.10-
Cool route, a bit of a sandbag I thought.. especially the move just below the roof on p1 where the crack in the corner pinches down to nothing... Dec 15, 2010
Just did the route, whoever carved in to the start "route X> 5.9+ way harder" you are a douche. IF you can't climb the grades here in RR, or wherever for that matter, stay home. I spent an hour trying to erase what you did, and you are lower then the dog sh*t i found on the approach. So if you read this, have the balls to fess up and admit your mistakes and go clean up your mess. And if you want to call me out, just message me, I will meet you wherever you want.

Kurt "Burt" Arend Aug 6, 2010
brucelacroix
Portland, OR.
  5.10
brucelacroix   Portland, OR.
  5.10
If I do this again, I'll bring a #5 cam for P2. #4 was a little wobbly. Classic. Mar 28, 2009
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.10a
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.10a
I thought it was distinctly more difficult than any of the cruxes on Black Widow Hollow, so I'd call it some kind of 5.10, but that's just me. A worthy effort. Nice prayer flags in the next alcove to the right. Mar 11, 2009
Jerry W
Rapid City, SD
  5.9+
Jerry W   Rapid City, SD
  5.9+
Awesome route!! First pitch is pretty stout for the grade, but the gear is all there.
Could it be the stiff old slings and cords we rapped from yesterday are the same ones that were there in 2005?? We forgot to bring up our rings and slings, but if you're going to get on this, taking up some replacement anchor material would be a good idea, and a great service. Anchors on the top of the second pitch extend roughly 6 feet from the tree that they're wrapped around. The top of the first pitch is a more typical setup (also around a tree). Feb 3, 2009
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
Fun stemming on the first pitch and great lie backing on the second pitch. One of my favorite shorter climbs in Red Rock. The climb starts just to the left of a cavernous tunnel through the rock. The rappels were from shrubs with lots of old slings. Jun 4, 2005
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
Just climbed this route today and I have to tip my hat (once again) to Joe...what a route! Great climbing on this one- although its stout at the grade, I wouldnt call it sandbagged if you're solid on all the techniques it requires.

Also, theres a pair of over-slung rap stations that will get you back to your packs with one rope. If you go up there, lug up about 40' of webbing to resling 'em....I'll post here if i get there before you! Apr 10, 2005

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