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Routes in Zoo Wall

Body Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Closed Heimer TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conflict In Terms T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crazy Alice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Delete this route, Duplicate! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dihedral, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Extended Altar Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasy Roof T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Larin Has Balls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leap Frog T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of Reality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
McBride's Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
No Stone Unturned T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrotum Roof T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shake and Bake T C2
Side Saddle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slap Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sloth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Jesus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time the Avenger TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Much Fun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triple Decker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,446 total, 47/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Climb ledge to ledge, great stances abound. Plenty of backstep opportunities and no hands rests/placements. This route gets greasy, so it can easily psyche you out. The crux is moving under the roof, which looks intimidating from the ground but all the positive holds are solid making this thing a blast for anyone. Only downside, is you can't get a clean fall with so many ledges.

Location

The Left most route on the main wall. The obvious Dihedral

Protection

Big gear down low and normal stuff up top. Use a long runner under the roof to reduce rope drag.
Alec R  
Left some gear behind at the base of zoo wall left in the Narrows, at the base of fantasy roof. 4 tricams + 4 hexes...if you find my gear let me know! Really appreciate anyone's help. In Dallas so happy to drive to pick it up or pay for shipping. Feb 12, 2017
Michael A Parker
Tulsa, OK
  5.6
Michael A Parker   Tulsa, OK
  5.6
Amazing route. It was exciting with some fun moves on big block ledges. The gear was solid and plentiful. The traverse under the roof wasn't what I would call polished, it just didn't have as much friction as the rest of the climb. You could still smear just fine. I highly recommend this route. Feb 6, 2017
Henry Holub
Altus, Ok
 
Henry Holub   Altus, Ok
 
Climbed this route for the first time today. The rock on the face is definitely polished but aside from having to figure out a few sequences, the only two places that were difficult for me were the pockets section in the middle of the climb and the last move from the corner to the flake. This is the most unique 5.6 I've done in the refuge. Apr 4, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.6
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.6
Easy 5.6 with the crux coming right under the roof where the wall is polished and makes for a tricky traverse. Solid pro the entire way. Watch out for bats in the cracks! We had lots of fun on this route. Apr 8, 2015
DGraham
Dallas
  5.6
DGraham   Dallas
  5.6
I don't know what people are talking about, this is a Great route! Is has aesthetic looks to it, great and easy protection! the only thing was it was a little greasy from climbing shoes and with all the ledges there was barely any room for clean falls which would make it a much more scary route if it wasn't for all the enormous hand holds and incredible no-hands-rest stances which make protecting this climb very manageable. enjoy it for what it is, not what you expect it to be. Aug 3, 2014
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
I finally braved the crowds at zoo wall and led this thing. The "grease fest" comments on here had me a little worried! The rock on this route is certainly more slick than anything at Crab Eyes, for example, but IMO it's no where near a "grease fest." The route is fun and easy. I led Crazy Alice the same day. Dihedral is 2 grades easier in my opinion...solid 5.6. There are good stances throughout and great gear. New leaders should not be discouraged. My buddy did it yesterday as his 3rd trad lead ever.

I led this route and then climbed past the anchor to finish on The Flying Nun. That made for a great route with an exciting exit. Feb 17, 2014
JeffL
Salt Lake City
JeffL   Salt Lake City
Felt like 5.7+ to me, falls were not clean as mentioned above. It's not really a crack climb, I used more liebacking and face climbing. I'd highly recommend Crazy Alice over this climb if you feel confident at 5.8 and are looking to jam Mar 27, 2013
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
I knew I read it somewhere.... "The Dihedral is one of the best 5.6 climb in the southern U.S." - Chuck Lohn author of "The Oklahoma Climber's Guide Oct 31, 2011
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
Point taken on this not being anywhere close to the best state or even area... I have no idea where I'd think I read that from? Great alternative choices for other routes. Now I must contest the assertion that it's a 5.7, because it has jugs the whole way, a no hands stance every 8-10 feet, the crux is all jugs, slick rock isn't a problem given all the back step opportunities. Oct 31, 2011
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.7
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.7
Felt like 5.7 to me. Similar difficulty to Yellow Corner, and harder than the other 5.6's in the Narrows due to being off-width and slick. Jun 1, 2010
CalebSimpson
  5.7
CalebSimpson  
  5.7
Great classic route. Rating is more around 5.7 now because a lot of moves are polished and the move coming out of the roof is more of a 5.7 move as well. Done this as a second and on lead.

Route can give new leaders a run for their money, there is potential to fall on ledges all the way up, so be careful when protecting. It doesn't hurt to have a #4 on this route either, maybe even two. I think I only placed one though. Dec 20, 2008
Arnold Braker
golden, co
Arnold Braker   golden, co
honestly, this route blows like gums mcgee. It's slick, it's wide, and it's awkward at the bottem. Yuck. Great Expectations is a helluva lot more fun.

If this is the best 5.6 in the nation, American route developers have some serious work to do. Mar 10, 2008
CalebSimpson
  5.7
CalebSimpson  
  5.7
Grease fest? I don't recall this route being slick at all. Climbed it twice without any problems. Second time was on TR hauling up as fast as I could to photograph a climber on Crazy Alice. I have heard this is more of a "Level 2" newbie leader climb though, but mostly because of the ledge and use of runners. Feb 4, 2008
MauryB
Boulder, CO
MauryB   Boulder, CO
I've never heard anyone call it the best 5.6 in the state. All the same, not a terrible climb, but the rest of the climbs on that face are much better. Jul 8, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Although I gave this route a 4 star rating, it is mostly for historic value. Don't be fooled into thinking that this route is the best 5.6 in Oklahoma, let alone the nation. In fact, here is a list of better 5.6's that first time leaders can be psyched on:

Yee Haw; Upper Mt. Scott (3 freaking star route for sure)
Side Saddle: Zoo Wall left
Great Expectations; Elk Slab
Large Corner Girdle; Lichen Wall

Get out and do these routes before you slide off the Dihedral grease-fest! Jul 1, 2007
Andrew Tower
Golden, CO
  5.6
Andrew Tower   Golden, CO
  5.6
the best? i dunno man, the whole thing is slick as snot and I don't think i'd put beginning leaders on it just because of it. Jul 1, 2007