Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,224 total · 48/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route

98 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details


Climb ledge to ledge, great stances abound. Plenty of backstep opportunities and no hands rests/placements. This route gets greasy, so it can easily psyche you out. The crux is moving under the roof, which looks intimidating from the ground but all the positive holds are solid making this thing a blast for anyone. Only downside, is you can't get a clean fall with so many ledges.


The Left most route on the main wall. The obvious Dihedral


Big gear down low and normal stuff up top. Use a long runner under the roof to reduce rope drag.
Andrew Tower
San Francisco
Andrew Tower   San Francisco
the best? i dunno man, the whole thing is slick as snot and I don't think i'd put beginning leaders on it just because of it. Jul 1, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Although I gave this route a 4 star rating, it is mostly for historic value. Don't be fooled into thinking that this route is the best 5.6 in Oklahoma, let alone the nation. In fact, here is a list of better 5.6's that first time leaders can be psyched on:

Yee Haw; Upper Mt. Scott (3 freaking star route for sure)
Side Saddle: Zoo Wall left
Great Expectations; Elk Slab
Large Corner Girdle; Lichen Wall

Get out and do these routes before you slide off the Dihedral grease-fest! Jul 1, 2007
Boulder, CO
MauryB   Boulder, CO
I've never heard anyone call it the best 5.6 in the state. All the same, not a terrible climb, but the rest of the climbs on that face are much better. Jul 8, 2007
Grease fest? I don't recall this route being slick at all. Climbed it twice without any problems. Second time was on TR hauling up as fast as I could to photograph a climber on Crazy Alice. I have heard this is more of a "Level 2" newbie leader climb though, but mostly because of the ledge and use of runners. Feb 4, 2008
Arnold Braker
golden, co
Arnold Braker   golden, co
honestly, this route blows like gums mcgee. It's slick, it's wide, and it's awkward at the bottem. Yuck. Great Expectations is a helluva lot more fun.

If this is the best 5.6 in the nation, American route developers have some serious work to do. Mar 10, 2008
Great classic route. Rating is more around 5.7 now because a lot of moves are polished and the move coming out of the roof is more of a 5.7 move as well. Done this as a second and on lead.

Route can give new leaders a run for their money, there is potential to fall on ledges all the way up, so be careful when protecting. It doesn't hurt to have a #4 on this route either, maybe even two. I think I only placed one though. Dec 20, 2008
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
Felt like 5.7 to me. Similar difficulty to Yellow Corner, and harder than the other 5.6's in the Narrows due to being off-width and slick. Jun 1, 2010
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Point taken on this not being anywhere close to the best state or even area... I have no idea where I'd think I read that from? Great alternative choices for other routes. Now I must contest the assertion that it's a 5.7, because it has jugs the whole way, a no hands stance every 8-10 feet, the crux is all jugs, slick rock isn't a problem given all the back step opportunities. Oct 31, 2011
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
I knew I read it somewhere.... "The Dihedral is one of the best 5.6 climb in the southern U.S." - Chuck Lohn author of "The Oklahoma Climber's Guide Oct 31, 2011
Salt Lake City
JeffL   Salt Lake City
Felt like 5.7+ to me, falls were not clean as mentioned above. It's not really a crack climb, I used more liebacking and face climbing. I'd highly recommend Crazy Alice over this climb if you feel confident at 5.8 and are looking to jam Mar 27, 2013
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
I finally braved the crowds at zoo wall and led this thing. The "grease fest" comments on here had me a little worried! The rock on this route is certainly more slick than anything at Crab Eyes, for example, but IMO it's no where near a "grease fest." The route is fun and easy. I led Crazy Alice the same day. Dihedral is 2 grades easier in my opinion...solid 5.6. There are good stances throughout and great gear. New leaders should not be discouraged. My buddy did it yesterday as his 3rd trad lead ever.

I led this route and then climbed past the anchor to finish on The Flying Nun. That made for a great route with an exciting exit. Feb 17, 2014
David Graham
David Graham   Dallas
I don't know what people are talking about, this is a Great route! Is has aesthetic looks to it, great and easy protection! the only thing was it was a little greasy from climbing shoes and with all the ledges there was barely any room for clean falls which would make it a much more scary route if it wasn't for all the enormous hand holds and incredible no-hands-rest stances which make protecting this climb very manageable. enjoy it for what it is, not what you expect it to be. Aug 3, 2014
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
Easy 5.6 with the crux coming right under the roof where the wall is polished and makes for a tricky traverse. Solid pro the entire way. Watch out for bats in the cracks! We had lots of fun on this route. Apr 8, 2015
Henry Holub
Altus, Ok
Henry Holub   Altus, Ok
Climbed this route for the first time today. The rock on the face is definitely polished but aside from having to figure out a few sequences, the only two places that were difficult for me were the pockets section in the middle of the climb and the last move from the corner to the flake. This is the most unique 5.6 I've done in the refuge. Apr 4, 2016
Michael Parker
Bozeman, MT
Michael Parker   Bozeman, MT
Amazing route. It was exciting with some fun moves on big block ledges. The gear was solid and plentiful. The traverse under the roof wasn't what I would call polished, it just didn't have as much friction as the rest of the climb. You could still smear just fine. I highly recommend this route. Feb 6, 2017
Alec R  
Left some gear behind at the base of zoo wall left in the Narrows, at the base of fantasy roof. 4 tricams + 4 hexes...if you find my gear let me know! Really appreciate anyone's help. In Dallas so happy to drive to pick it up or pay for shipping. Feb 12, 2017
Brennan Vandyke
Carson City, NV
Brennan Vandyke   Carson City, NV
This should not have a TR label on it. You CANNOT TR this route from the anchors. I mean, we did, but it is super sketchy. This is not for a group to go out and have fun TRing with the anchors. Nov 28, 2018