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Routes in Center Wall

Bahama Mama T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Caver's Nightmare T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chunky Tuna T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slam Bam Thank-You Ma'am T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Voodoo Potato Chips S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 205 total · 1/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


Caver’s Nightmare is so short that it doesn’t really constitute are route. There wouldn’t be much of a reason to climb it at all, unless you found yourself at the top of Chunky Tuna and needed a way to get down. At the top of Chunky Tuna is a slot behind a flake on the right side. Crawl under the flake and back into the slot until you can stand up. Work your way up the easy chimney (a couple good face moves near the top). Best climbed without a rope or harness – it’s short with no protection, a rope and harness would just get in the way. Either walk off the top or traverse left to the anchors above Pro Sweat.




Frankly, I think this makes for a better descent route than climb. You can walk down it from the climber's right side of the chimney, but you still have to pretty much crawl and squeeze out of the bottom. Then you can down climb the choosy and vegetated 4th class face and hand/fist crack below the chimney to reach the ground. This chimney may also serve as a means for topping it out after climbing Chunky Tuna. Jan 30, 2014

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