Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Mike Panciera, David Panciera, Greg Schooley, 1975
Page Views: 8,499 total · 50/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 15, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz, Ryan Sheldon

You & This Route


136 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is not very clear, about 25-30 feet up the crack breaks up some and the feet aren't as good, the high section has some awkward jams. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other.

Location

Center of the main wall, the most obvious and consistent route in the narrows.

Protection

Great gear, the last time I was on, it ate all 8 of my Rock Empires. Just fire in the gear and move. Chain anchors.

Testpiece

This route deserves the MEGA CLASSIC rating, because it features sustained climbing for a full 50-60 feet, requiring a variety of techniques to send. I would suggest that if you can send Crazy Alice, you will have no trouble with any other 5.8 in the refuge. I always reguarded it as the areas testpiece.

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