Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Panciera, David Panciera, Greg Schooley, 1975
Page Views: 6,965 total · 47/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 15, 2006 with updates from Greg Schooley
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107 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is not very clear, about 25-30 feet up the crack breaks up some and the feet aren't as good, the high section has some awkward jams. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other.

Location

Center of the main wall, the most obvious and consistent route in the narrows.

Protection

Great gear, the last time I was on, it ate all 8 of my Rock Empires. Just fire in the gear and move. Chain anchors.

Testpiece

This route deserves the MEGA CLASSIC rating, because it features sustained climbing for a full 50-60 feet, requiring a variety of techniques to send. I would suggest that if you can send Crazy Alice, you will have no trouble with any other 5.8 in the refuge. I always reguarded it as the areas testpiece.
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.8
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.8
Totally classic, my first real trad lead. Excellent for an intro to trad climbing or on a breezy day. Aug 6, 2007
John Calder
Spokane, WA
John Calder   Spokane, WA
Great route. Watch out for bats in the crack up high. I've almost touched em on a few jams before. Aug 6, 2007
definitely a great climb, i'd put mr. clean on lower scott as my favorite 5.8 in the wichitas, if you visit the tas and are intersted in moderate trad, i'd say both are must do's. Dec 19, 2008
Brent Butcher
  5.8
Brent Butcher  
  5.8
This crack used all my BD .75's and 1's. Bring 2 of each. Nov 18, 2010
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Great route, solid pro & lots of fun. You can setup a top rope at the chains and bang out lots of routes. Apr 8, 2015
Herndon  
One of the best 5.8's in the Refuge. A must do. Jan 17, 2016
Jamie Umbras
Dallas, TX
 
Jamie Umbras   Dallas, TX
 
Superb climb. Beautiful scenery. Mar 29, 2016
Alec R  
Left some gear behind at the base of zoo wall left in the Narrows, at the base of fantasy roof. 4 tricams + 4 hexes...if you find my gear let me know! Really appreciate anyone's help. In Dallas so happy to drive to pick it up or pay for shipping. Feb 12, 2017