Avg: 3.5 from 107 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||Mike Panciera, David Panciera, Greg Schooley, 1975|
|Page Views:||6,965 total · 47/month|
|Shared By:||Craig Childre on Sep 15, 2006|
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is not very clear, about 25-30 feet up the crack breaks up some and the feet aren't as good, the high section has some awkward jams. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other.
Great gear, the last time I was on, it ate all 8 of my Rock Empires. Just fire in the gear and move. Chain anchors.
This route deserves the MEGA CLASSIC rating, because it features sustained climbing for a full 50-60 feet, requiring a variety of techniques to send. I would suggest that if you can send Crazy Alice, you will have no trouble with any other 5.8 in the refuge. I always reguarded it as the areas testpiece.