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Routes in Zoo Wall

Body Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Closed Heimer TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conflict In Terms T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crazy Alice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Delete this route, Duplicate! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dihedral, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Extended Altar Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasy Roof T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Larin Has Balls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leap Frog T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of Reality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
McBride's Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
No Stone Unturned T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrotum Roof T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shake and Bake T C2
Side Saddle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slap Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sloth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Jesus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time the Avenger TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Much Fun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triple Decker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Panciera, David Panciera, Greg Schooley, 1975
Page Views: 6,339 total, 47/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 15, 2006 with updates
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is not very clear, about 25-30 feet up the crack breaks up some and the feet aren't as good, the high section has some awkward jams. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other.

Location

Center of the main wall, the most obvious and consistent route in the narrows.

Protection

Great gear, the last time I was on, it ate all 8 of my Rock Empires. Just fire in the gear and move. Chain anchors.

Testpiece

This route deserves the MEGA CLASSIC rating, because it features sustained climbing for a full 50-60 feet, requiring a variety of techniques to send. I would suggest that if you can send Crazy Alice, you will have no trouble with any other 5.8 in the refuge. I always reguarded it as the areas testpiece.
Alec R  
Left some gear behind at the base of zoo wall left in the Narrows, at the base of fantasy roof. 4 tricams + 4 hexes...if you find my gear let me know! Really appreciate anyone's help. In Dallas so happy to drive to pick it up or pay for shipping. Feb 12, 2017
Jamie Umbras
Moab, UT
 
Jamie Umbras   Moab, UT
 
Superb climb. Beautiful scenery. Mar 29, 2016
Herndon  
One of the best 5.8's in the Refuge. A must do. Jan 17, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Great route, solid pro & lots of fun. You can setup a top rope at the chains and bang out lots of routes. Apr 8, 2015
Brent Butcher
  5.8
Brent Butcher  
  5.8
This crack used all my BD .75's and 1's. Bring 2 of each. Nov 18, 2010
definitely a great climb, i'd put mr. clean on lower scott as my favorite 5.8 in the wichitas, if you visit the tas and are intersted in moderate trad, i'd say both are must do's. Dec 19, 2008
John Calder
Spokane, WA
John Calder   Spokane, WA
Great route. Watch out for bats in the crack up high. I've almost touched em on a few jams before. Aug 6, 2007
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.8
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.8
Totally classic, my first real trad lead. Excellent for an intro to trad climbing or on a breezy day. Aug 6, 2007