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Routes in Cheap Wine Wall

Boston T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dome Driver S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hartford T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kracken, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MD 20/20 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Newark T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ripple S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TJ Swan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Keistler, Kirk Holladay
Page Views: 3,202 total, 70/month
Shared By: Superclimber on Feb 12, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

You can not rap or lower off either pitch of this climb with a single 60 Meter rope.

The Kracken is named for James Crump's internet handle. Crump is responsible for much of the parks early development and many of it's first ascents.

This route was bolted on lead in 2008 in old school traditional style. To my knowledge this is the last line at Erock to be bolted from the ground up. Since then it has become a very popular line. Presumably because it is quite reasonably protected by Erock standards.

Pitch 1: Start on the low angle slab and clip one bolt before the overlap. The second bolt can be found on top of the overlap and can be clipped before pulling the first of two cruxes. Above the overlap continue up easy well featured slab, following the line of bolts. Belay on the large comfortable Boston Ledge under the trees. Double bolted rap bolts are found here. Take long slings or know how to anchor in with the rope. The anchors are otherwise placed a bit too high and far apart to allow for a comfortable belay.

Pitch 2: There are two bolted lines leaving the ledge. The first bolt above the ledge can be used for both. Kracken is the line to the right and Newark goes left. After clipping the second bolt it may be helpful to back track and unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag. The third bolt protects the second crux. After the crux, climb the lower angle black streak that is shared with Dome Driver. Three more bolts are located on the black streak before reaching the double bolted anchors that are also shared with Dome Driver. From here there is a short 4th class scramble to the top if you are walking off or rappelling with a single sixty from the News Wall anchors. Some will prefer to be belayed for the scramble off.

Location

Kracken is the first bolted line to the right of the large rotten v-shaped notch in the overlap that marks Boston. Look for the first bolt below the overlap to the right of the rotten notch and start climbing.

Protection

You can not rap off this route with a single 60 Meter rope. For the descent either walk off, take two ropes, or use the News Wall rap bolts to descend in one rappel with a single 60.

P-1: 6 bolts to a double bolted belay with rap hangers.
P-2: 1 bolt shared with Newark and 5 more belonging to Kracken leading to a double bolted belay with rap hangers.

Photos

Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
  5.8
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
  5.8
I wouldn't say this is really fun-out, aside from the bottom I suppose between the first two bolts. There are some flakes out right that look like they'll take gear, but they're very hollow - don't recommend. I was actually kind of surprised at how closely bolted it was and how amazing the clipping stances were. Highly recommended if you are new to the grade, as both of the cruxes are very well protected. Jul 7, 2017
This route is really run-out slab, up to 30 feet in some places. It sounds a lot scarier than it is in person, it's a pretty low angled slab. Certainly not trad/mixed though, it's really blank granite most of the way and not much opportunity for placements.

My group made two very close rappels down from pitch two to the ground (70 m rope), so be super mindful of rope management on this route. If you don't have a 70, bring two ropes. First pitch was a really fun lead! Dec 1, 2016
ggstart
 
ggstart  
 
Had a friend interested multi-pitch climbs. After some practice at Devil Slide and had him lead Kracken.
The routes were dry, thankfully, with great weather.

If only going to P1, the following link is a good technique for a long rap with a short rope.

climbing.com/skills/long-ra…
Enjoy. GGS Apr 11, 2016
mattm
TX
  5.8+
mattm   TX
  5.8+
A 70m rope will get you from P2 anchors to belay ledge on P1 (BARELY) however it's bit short to get you to the ground. If you're ok with rapping off the ends and down climbing the last bit a 70m can work but be aware you need to watch your ends!!! Feb 19, 2016
Paul-B
 
Paul-B  
 
Can you rap off it with a 70? Oct 17, 2015
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
  5.8
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
  5.8
Gotcha. Can it be done mixed with pro if people are worried about the run-out? Or is it just typical run-out slab. ;) Aug 2, 2015
Superclimber  
 
I listed it as trad because this is a traditional area and it is not uncommon for people who climb sport at Reimer's and such to come to Erock and be surprised by the bolt spacing, the lack of sport clips, and the rap distances. There have been close calls on the so called "sport routes" and at least one helicoptor ride because people ran out of rope while rapping. Jul 10, 2015
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
  5.8
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
  5.8
Why is this listed as trad if it is bolted? Jul 1, 2015