Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,648 total · 14/month
Shared By: EricD on Apr 1, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Climb the crack to a ledge shared with Diplomatic Immunity. The crack is a bit awkward and doesn't seem to like having people in it. Plenty of face holds on the left mitigate this. The difficulty eases the higher you climb.

Location

Right-side crack of the pillar to the right of Crooked Crack.

Protection

Medium gear for the route. Medium to large gear for the anchor.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8
Any beginning leader expecting a 5.5 climb can look forward to a rude (and potentially painful) awakening here. May 12, 2013
tom9382
5.7
tom9382  
5.7
Beginner trad leader here... wanted to find an easy route. Didn't end up going up because it looks more difficult than what I would expect for a 5.4 climb. Jan 9, 2014
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
5.7 PG13
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
5.7 PG13
There's a few 5.6 moves to get off the ground, and then the 5.7 crux sequence where you'd fall on a ledge, before some easier (5.4?) climbing that is fairly unprotected (if you don't have tricams for the huecos, it's totally unprotected). The crux sequence *was* pretty interesting IMHO.

Definitely not a good place for a 5.5 beginner. Apr 16, 2018