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Areas in The Narrows

Aerial Anticipation 2 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Leaning Tower 18 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Lichen Wall 24 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 27
Marlboro Man Wall 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Meat Slab 1 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Sunshine Wall 3 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Veloria Boulder 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Window Rock Wall 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Wizard Wall 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Zoo Wall 32 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 35
Elevation: 1,551 ft
GPS: 34.696, -98.668 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 15, 2006
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Description

A high concentration of high quality lines that are access by a well maintained trail, that was originally built by climbers, and today is used by many a turon.
Access is always an issue here. Details

Getting There

From the park headquarters drive west for about 5 minutes. A left turn to Dog Run is your exit. About 2 miles past the gate park at the picnic area on the left, outside the gate. A trail at the east end of the picnic area leads you to the narrows. Approach time is about 15 minutes.

104 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Narrows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
The Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Corner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ker Plunk
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Crunch
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arrowsmith
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Unfinished Piece
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crazy Alice
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Roof
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Stone Unturned
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Flying Nun
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaning Tower Direct
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Dr. Coolhead
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aerial Anticipation
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
League of Doom
Trad 2 pitches
The Dihedral Zoo Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Yellow Corner Zoo Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Ker Plunk Lichen Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Captain Crunch Leaning Tower 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Arrowsmith Leaning Tower 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Unfinished Piece Zoo Wall 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Crazy Alice Zoo Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fantasy Roof Zoo Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
No Stone Unturned Zoo Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Flying Nun Zoo Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Leaning Tower Direct Leaning Tower 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dr. Coolhead Zoo Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X Trad, TR
Spaceballs Lichen Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Aerial Anticipation Aerial Anticipation 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
League of Doom Lichen Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad 2 pitches
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Weather Averages

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Alec R  
Left some gear behind at the base of zoo wall left in the Narrows, at the base of fantasy roof. 4 tricams + 4 hexes...if you find my gear let me know! Really appreciate anyone's help. In Dallas so happy to drive to pick it up or pay for shipping. Feb 12, 2017
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
When the river is up. If you can get past the first river crossing. Avoid the main trail that descends from the overlook point. Instead take the upper trail/bushwack to reach the ramp atop Zoo Wall. Scramble down to the Crazy Alice chains and rap in. You'll have access to Leaning Tower and the right side of Lichen Wall. Large Corner Girdle reaches the top of Lichen Wall if you are dreaming of Spaceballs or League of Doom. Though, I would probably downclimb Spaced to reach that first belay. Probably have the place all to yourself :) Jul 25, 2016
Malissa  
The Narrows has some incredible climbs, but enjoying them may be impossible after recent rain. If you find yourself still wanting to venture out there, make sure to prepare beforehand. Waterproofing your pack will be necessary since you have to cross the river multiple times, and the water level can require you to swim across. Water levels may be several feet higher than normal. Lastly, be prepared to bushwhack your way through the approach, as the true trails are overgrown and essentially unrecognizable in some locations. Avoiding the Narrows altogether after significant rainfall is probably wise. The Wichita Wildlife Refuge has many other climbing options with drier approaches.

Jul 25, 2016
Tcachee  
The narrows is currently VERY overgrown and hard to access. Don't try to go here after it rains, the high creek makes the canyon VERY VERY hard to navigate. Jun 6, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
It depends on which wall you are interested. I would start at Lichen Wall. When it get sunny move up to Leaning Tower or Zoo wall. The Dyhedral stays cool most of the day but gets lots of traffic. Aug 6, 2015
Daniel Rickert
Dallas, TX
Daniel Rickert   Dallas, TX
When do the Narrows get shade? I have been a few times and can't remember Aug 5, 2015
So, (extremely) long story short, we could not find the approach trail to the narrows off of the "VERY" descriptive map we got from the visitor center. For you guys like us who can't find the broad side of a barn, here's a picture of what you should look for when driving by. It really is a 15 minute approach, if you can find the trail. First off, at the visitor center, they sell the climbing guide book "Oklahoma Select" (about $18) which will help you. You should see a "no sport rappeling" sign. You'll find another one of these signs along the trail. The path will follow the ridge on the right when facing towards the far end of the narrows.If you find yourself following the river closely for a long time, you went the long way, but it will take you where need be. The path should lead you down along the ridge, and you should have to do some boulder hopping in the river. Most climbs will be on the right side of the canyon, and thats where this path will take you.The zoo wall will have good switchbacks, just have to find them. Hope this keeps you from taking a 2 hour approach like we did. Most climbs will be on your right, when facing down towards the far end of the canyon. Also, the trail starts at the far left corner of the picnic area. Good luck out there. P.S.-didn't see any ticks(used bug spray), or poison ivy. Jun 22, 2012
Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
Yes, you can climb on the opposite side of the creek now. In the past it was closed because of a five year study to determine if climbers were making an impact on the area. After a finding of no significant impact the ban was lifted. You can now climb there. There is still no sport rapelling allowed in the narrows though. Oct 17, 2009
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
I think the primary function of that sign was to keep the boy scouts from setting up rap lines when they should head over to Meat Slab or just go further down canyon. Even though sport rapping is off limits, it goes on all the time. Sep 14, 2009
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
Is the left side of the creek open again? I noticed last Fall that the signs saying not to climb on the left side (across from zoo wall) of the creek had vanished. Does anyone know about this? May 21, 2007

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