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Routes in Zoo Wall

Body Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Closed Heimer TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conflict In Terms T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crazy Alice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Delete this route, Duplicate! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dihedral, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Extended Altar Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasy Roof T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Nun, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Larin Has Balls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leap Frog T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of Reality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
McBride's Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
No Stone Unturned T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resurrection Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrotum Roof T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shake and Bake T C2
Side Saddle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slap Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sloth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Jesus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time the Avenger TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Much Fun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triple Decker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Duane Raleigh, Rick Thomas, Bill Thomas 1980
Page Views: 3,447 total, 25/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006
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You & This Route


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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Want to test your friction skills? This is the route! Working the steep face on micro edges will have your tips burning and only great footwork will get you through. The lower moves are protected by a small cam in the lower crack and bolts up above. The crux is passing the 1st bolt, with some different options. I prefer to work it straight up focusing on balancy feet. Some like moving right to a juggy ledge to overcome. Work the thin edges to the top and keep out of Alice's crack!

Location

The face just right of Crazy Alice.

Protection

2 Bolts and some small cams down low. Chain Anchor.

If you blow the first bolt, a standard belay will let you deck. A dynamic belay can lessen the impact, if not avoid it, so bring a compentent partner. Hopping off the belay ledge as the fall occours seems to be the most effective technique. Get good spotters, and a crash pad never hurt anyone. Except that girl who broke her ankle tripping over one....

Southern Rock

"Bring a cool head on this one."

Rating History

Raleigh and Thomas rated this 5.10x using old school ratings. Back when there was only one bolt to protect the crux. Then Chuck's guide placed it at 5.10a RX. Finally Tony advanced the rating up to 5.10dX.

Photos

Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
Anyone considering leading Coolhead. Unless you are seeking the on sight, we suggest you lead Crazy Alice first, and hang a long draw or sling on that first bolt as you lower off. A crash pad is worth it's trouble. Jun 20, 2016
Top Roped this one and fell at the first bolt and man was I glad I wasn't on lead. It is unfortunate that the crux of the route is 2 feet below the first bolt. However, I thought that the difficultly of the route let up after the first bolt and was more of a 5.10a/b. The crux was a solid 10d/11a move in my opinion. Wouldn't suggest leading this unless you are really solid at this grade. Jun 20, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.11a X
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.11a X
Hard route! Decking totally in play with only two bolts and your first clip is 20 ft up. Use caution... Apr 8, 2015
Daniel S
Oklahoma City
  5.10b/c X
Daniel S   Oklahoma City
  5.10b/c X
I originally liked the idea of placing one or two more bolts on the route. However, I feel much more rewarded having waited until I felt solid enough to red point Cool Head as is. I don't think we would be able to call it "Cool Head" if any more protection was added.:) You can always pink point the route via placing long slings on each bolt (5 to 8ft) to make a total of five clips: the cam in the horizontal, the carabiner at the end of the sling on the first bolt, the first bolt, the carabiner on the end of the sling on the second bolt, and the second bolt. May 16, 2012
Brent Butcher
  5.10d X
Brent Butcher  
  5.10d X
I wish this route had 1 or 2 more bolts would make this climb enjoyable. Apr 27, 2012
Scott Strong
Dallas, TX
Scott Strong   Dallas, TX
Did this route top roped 4/23/10. Beautiful route, fantastic and challenging climb. Apr 25, 2010
Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
Still only 2 bolts. And yes there is a good deal of space where your cam will not prevent ground fall if you fall before the first bolt. Jan 28, 2008
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
There are two sets of chain anchors at the top. So Dr. Coolhead AND crazy alice can be run at the same time. They are only a few feet apart. Mar 12, 2007
Daniel S
Oklahoma City
  5.10b/c X
Daniel S   Oklahoma City
  5.10b/c X
I only remember two bolts as recently as August 2006. Has a new bolt been added since then? Also, if you blow the first bolt, you will deck even with a cam placement in the highest crack. In the guide books, the safety of this climb is rated RX. Mar 6, 2007