Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,713 total · 52/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

118 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


Jack Knife is the prominent cleft in the large boulder at the top of the purple climberÂ’s trail, just left of Orient Express. It is undoubtedly one of the best 5.5s in the park and provides the most direct access to Cave Crack on the wall above. Climb a short face to a low angle, right-angling hand/fist crack. The crack is a lot of fun, protects well, and has positive hand and fist jams all the way to the top. The crux is a slightly steeper section about two-thirds of the way to the top. Two rappel bolts are located at the top of the rock on a small summit block.


Light rack with a couple of medium sized cams.


Jake T
Prescott AZ
Jake T   Prescott AZ
Easiest and fastest appraoch to "Cave Crack" Also protects easily. There is a 5.9 sport slab route that shares the base of this climb for a little variety in the same general area. Jun 10, 2011
Portland, OR
nicktucker   Portland, OR
My first trad lead ever, and my buddy roped the gri gri through backwards. It was emotional Oct 3, 2012
BigFeet   Texas
First trad lead climb ever and it was awesome! Left camera in gear pack at bottom boulder. Damn!

Medium size gear used. Three cams (Dragon, Demon, and an Omega), one BD stopper, and a hex (because I had one). Right anchor hanger spins still, but the bolt is solid.

On rappel; From top anchor looking down, throw rope slightly left and over bulge above where the crack starts to turn. This will help avoid rope stuckage suckage and allows last half of the rappel to be down a vertical face! :)

Climb safe and double check yourself! Jul 13, 2014
A bunch of rotten stuff at the bottom flaked off recently. The pro has changed in that spot and the move getting into the ramp (essentially the crux) just got a little harder. I've been hearing 5.6 and 5.7 for the upgraded grade on it with this change. Personally I put it as a 5.6 now. May 2, 2017
David Liu
David Liu  
Ended up placing a nut near the start of the crack, a few #1 size cams, and my #2-#4 near the top. Bolts to the upper left of the crack when you finish. Use an alpine draw on a few of the cams if you need to reduce rope drag while pulling up the rope to downclimb to the next route (Cave Crack). Nov 27, 2017
David Liu
David Liu  
Video of Jack Knife to Cave Crack (and gear placements): youtube.com/watch?v=nNOXKVf…

You can sit on the top horn where the anchors are if you want to belay from a more comfortable stance. Jan 3, 2018
Eric Demo
Cedar Park
Eric Demo   Cedar Park
led this with a WC #1, 2, and 3. really, really wished i had a #4 for the top. it was one of my first trad leads, so keep that in mind. i thought the top was the crux, and by the time i got to the anchors the #3 was low enough i would have hit the ground had i fallen. Aug 27, 2018