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Routes in Throne Rock Area

Hard Hands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jack Knife T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orient Express S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practice slab TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,049 total · 51/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Jack Knife is the prominent cleft in the large boulder at the top of the purple climberÂ’s trail, just left of Orient Express. It is undoubtedly one of the best 5.5s in the park and provides the most direct access to Cave Crack on the wall above. Climb a short face to a low angle, right-angling hand/fist crack. The crack is a lot of fun, protects well, and has positive hand and fist jams all the way to the top. The crux is a slightly steeper section about two-thirds of the way to the top. Two rappel bolts are located at the top of the rock on a small summit block.

Protection

Light rack with a couple of medium sized cams.

Photos

nicktucker
Portland, OR
  5.5
nicktucker   Portland, OR
  5.5
My first trad lead ever, and my buddy roped the gri gri through backwards. It was emotional Oct 3, 2012
David Liu
  5.7
David Liu  
  5.7
Video of Jack Knife to Cave Crack (and gear placements): youtube.com/watch?v=nNOXKVf…

You can sit on the top horn where the anchors are if you want to belay from a more comfortable stance. Jan 3, 2018
David Liu
  5.7
David Liu  
  5.7
Ended up placing a nut near the start of the crack, a few #1 size cams, and my #2-#4 near the top. Bolts to the upper left of the crack when you finish. Use an alpine draw on a few of the cams if you need to reduce rope drag while pulling up the rope to downclimb to the next route (Cave Crack). Nov 27, 2017
A bunch of rotten stuff at the bottom flaked off recently. The pro has changed in that spot and the move getting into the ramp (essentially the crux) just got a little harder. I've been hearing 5.6 and 5.7 for the upgraded grade on it with this change. Personally I put it as a 5.6 now. May 2, 2017
BigFeet
Texas
 
BigFeet   Texas
 
First trad lead climb ever and it was awesome! Left camera in gear pack at bottom boulder. Damn!

Medium size gear used. Three cams (Dragon, Demon, and an Omega), one BD stopper, and a hex (because I had one). Right anchor hanger spins still, but the bolt is solid.

On rappel; From top anchor looking down, throw rope slightly left and over bulge above where the crack starts to turn. This will help avoid rope stuckage suckage and allows last half of the rappel to be down a vertical face! :)

Climb safe and double check yourself! Jul 13, 2014
Jake T
Prescott AZ
  5.5
Jake T   Prescott AZ
  5.5
Easiest and fastest appraoch to "Cave Crack" Also protects easily. There is a 5.9 sport slab route that shares the base of this climb for a little variety in the same general area. Jun 10, 2011

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