Type: Sport
FA: Mieko Akutsu, Gail McClanahan
Page Views: 2,699 total · 17/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Hank Caylor

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Orient Express is a fun bolted route on a large, narrow boulder behind the Practice Slab and right of the obvious Jack Knife crack. Begin off three chockstones at the base of the route (good belay ledge below the chockstones). Climb the steep face past four bolts using small scoops and dishes for your feet and a collection of large crystals and small edges for hands. The crux is clipping the second bolt, and the moves above the third bolt are equally interesting. At the third bolt, climb up and right to a very positive flake that leads to the fourth bolt. There is a little run out to the top of the boulder. There is a set of anchors on the wall behind the top of the boulder. The best bet is to rap off and pull the long end of the rope through to minimize rope drag over the sharp, crystalline granite. Felt a little harder than the 5.9 rating.

Protection

Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos