PRINT: Rock Climb Orient Express, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Orient Express

5.9, Sport,

Avg: 2.7 from 56 votes
FA: Mieko Akutsu, Gail McClanahan
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Echo Canyon > Throne Rock Area

Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Rule Changes Concerning Pets at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area to Take Effect March 1.
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.

Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.

For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…

830-685-3636

Description

Orient Express is a fun bolted route on a large, narrow boulder behind the Practice Slab and right of the obvious Jack Knife crack. Begin off three chockstones at the base of the route (good belay ledge below the chockstones). Climb the steep face past four bolts using small scoops and dishes for your feet and a collection of large crystals and small edges for hands. The crux is clipping the second bolt, and the moves above the third bolt are equally interesting. At the third bolt, climb up and right to a very positive flake that leads to the fourth bolt. There is a little run out to the top of the boulder. There is a set of anchors on the wall behind the top of the boulder. The best bet is to rap off and pull the long end of the rope through to minimize rope drag over the sharp, crystalline granite. Felt a little harder than the 5.9 rating.

Protection

Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Circa 1990. First dicy lead I'd ever done. First clip was not for faint of heart if I recall. One of my favorite short slabs.

Nat rapping down after a clutch send.

A beautiful route with wonderful crystal crimps.

Preparing to clip the second bolt, summer 2021. Originally taken on Polaroid 600 series by Jackson Ramirez

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas

Among my favorite 5.9 face climbs in the park. Beautiful rock, route and location. Newhart stance is a couple chockstones above a deep chasm, probably with some booty draws from blown stick clips below. Easy enough first bolt, but a fall there might be you're end. Mar 17, 2014

Gunther Chesnut
San Antonio

Really enjoyable climb. Small holds up the face - nice steep with small features everywhere. Apr 14, 2016

cliffmama

Cheated. We had a telescoping stick clip and from the left side, you can clip the 3rd bolt so my lead wasn't so scary. We were afraid the rap from the far back bolt anchors would put us in the huge crevice, but the ropes managed to stay over the route. It's a fine route though, and worth doing. Mar 3, 2017

Joe Davis

I'm not sure if I missed some of the holds or something, but this was exceptionally harder than a 5.9. Be cautious of a big swing when lowering or rappelling from the anchors up top. Jan 17, 2023