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Routes in Throne Rock Area

Hard Hands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jack Knife T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orient Express S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practice slab TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,043 total, 11/month
Shared By: John Maguire on Jun 27, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Find an angling, small hands to wide fingers crack that moves up and left. The crux is about 10 feet up and requires powerful jamming and careful footwork. Protects great though it can be strenuous to place.

Descent: Class 4+ or 5.0 walk off straight back and climbers left, along the face of the rear wall. Could also be linked with a 5.8 sport climb (rightmost of the two) along this face (although its a scary move to make the first bolt).

Location

Climbers left and around the corner from Jack Knife.

Protection

Can be lead with 1, #2 low and 1, #1 above that. Gear is needed to build an anchor at the top.

Photos

Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas
 
Ryan Levihn-Coon   Austin, Texas
 
2 #1s and a .75 will do well. 1 #2 will do for the anchor, 2 is better. Think I used a #2 and #3. Can be down-climbed off the back and left side. Mar 17, 2014
Ky Harkey  
 
Probably an easier boulder problem than lead, but it definitely protects. This was pitch one, followed by a scramble to the base of Cave Crack; more fun than the typical Jack Knife approach. I belayed off a huge boulder. Mar 31, 2013
WMcD  
Good thin hands and even ring locking. V2. Feb 7, 2013