Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Lansing, Joe Herbst, early 1970's
Page Views: 20,639 total · 96/month
Shared By: George Bell on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The classic trad route of Willow Springs. This route faces NE and can be cold, it is shady most of the day. Last time I led this I kinda forgot about all the wide sections and got a bit nervous on the runouts. It is quite commonly led with nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot (or less), for which it should probably be considered to have an "S" rating.

If you don't have big gear you can just do the first (short) pitch and rap from bolts. Be considerate of others who want to do the entire route, however. Especially with a 60m rope, it is possible to lead this as one long pitch, although you may want to do a short second pitch to reach the walk-off.

Climb the obvious crack in the center of the cliff. The first part is hand jamming and stemming, you will reach a 2 bolt anchor at 60'. From here you can toprope Ragged Edges and Plan F to its left. Above here the crack gets wider, at one point where it looks like you will have to get inside and offwidth it you move out onto the right face. The top out is rather indistict and it can be hard to find a good belay anchor. Watch out for crumbly rock at the top out.

From the top, walk down easily to the right (north).

Protection

Standard rack, plus large cams are needed for good pro on this route. Take #3, #3.5, #4, #4,5 and #5 Camalots if you want good pro. Often led with much less than this, however (add pg/s rating).

Photos