All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Willow Spring > Ragged Edges Area

Ragged Edges

Name: Ragged Edges
Rating: 3.1

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Ragged Edges Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aikido Gun Boy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Bodiddly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Chicken Eruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Crooked Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dense Dunce T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dense Pack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Diplomatic Immunity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dumptruck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Footloose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Getting Too Old for This S--t T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Go Ahead and Jump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Go Ahead, Ok? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Kemosabe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lethal Weapon II T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Midheight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Midnight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Nightman Cometh, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ok Ok Ok! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Plan F T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Plan F - Early Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ragged Edges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Revoked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sheep Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Theme Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tonto T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Unknown crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	36.15799, -115.49855
FA:	Jeff Lansing, Joe Herbst, early 1970's
Page Views:	25,806 total · 94/month
Shared By:	George Bell on Feb 20, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

The classic trad route of Willow Springs. This route faces NE and can be cold, it is shady most of the day. Last time I led this I kinda forgot about all the wide sections and got a bit nervous on the runouts. It is quite commonly led with nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot (or less), for which it should probably be considered to have an "R" rating.

If you don't have big gear you can just do the first (short) pitch and rap from bolts. Be considerate of others who want to do the entire route, however. Especially with a 60m rope, it is possible to lead this as one long pitch, although you may want to do a short second pitch to reach the walk-off.

Climb the obvious crack in the center of the cliff. The first part is hand jamming and stemming, you'll reach a 2 bolt anchor at 60'. From here you can top-rope Ragged Edges and Plan F to its left. Above here the crack gets wider, at one point where it looks like you'll have to get inside and off-width it you move out onto the right face. The top out is rather indistinct and it can be hard to find a good belay anchor. Watch out for crumbly rock at the top out.

From the top, walk down easily to the right (north).

Protection

Standard rack, plus large cams are needed for good pro on this route. Take #3, #3.5, #4, #4.5 and #5 Camalots if you want good pro. Often led with much less than this, however (add PG-13/R rating).