Avg: 3.1 from 390 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jeff Lansing, Joe Herbst, early 1970's|
|Page Views:||14,849 total · 87/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Feb 20, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe classic trad route of Willow Springs. This route faces NE and can be cold, it is shady most of the day. Last time I led this I kinda forgot about all the wide sections and got a bit nervous on the runouts. It is quite commonly led with nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot (or less), for which it should probably be considered to have an "S" rating.
If you don't have big gear you can just do the first (short) pitch and rap from bolts. Be considerate of others who want to do the entire route, however. Especially with a 60m rope, it is possible to lead this as one long pitch, although you may want to do a short second pitch to reach the walk-off.
Climb the obvious crack in the center of the cliff. The first part is hand jamming and stemming, you will reach a 2 bolt anchor at 60'. From here you can toprope Ragged Edges and Plan F to its left. Above here the crack gets wider, at one point where it looks like you will have to get inside and offwidth it you move out onto the right face. The top out is rather indistict and it can be hard to find a good belay anchor. Watch out for crumbly rock at the top out.
From the top, walk down easily to the right (north).