Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Lansing, Joe Herbst, early 1970's
Page Views: 16,252 total · 89/month
Shared By: George Bell on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


The classic trad route of Willow Springs. This route faces NE and can be cold, it is shady most of the day. Last time I led this I kinda forgot about all the wide sections and got a bit nervous on the runouts. It is quite commonly led with nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot (or less), for which it should probably be considered to have an "S" rating.

If you don't have big gear you can just do the first (short) pitch and rap from bolts. Be considerate of others who want to do the entire route, however. Especially with a 60m rope, it is possible to lead this as one long pitch, although you may want to do a short second pitch to reach the walk-off.

Climb the obvious crack in the center of the cliff. The first part is hand jamming and stemming, you will reach a 2 bolt anchor at 60'. From here you can toprope Ragged Edges and Plan F to its left. Above here the crack gets wider, at one point where it looks like you will have to get inside and offwidth it you move out onto the right face. The top out is rather indistict and it can be hard to find a good belay anchor. Watch out for crumbly rock at the top out.

From the top, walk down easily to the right (north).


Standard rack, plus large cams are needed for good pro on this route. Take #3, #3.5, #4, #4,5 and #5 Camalots if you want good pro. Often led with much less than this, however (add pg/s rating).
I climbed this route a couple of years ago and found myself it deep doo doo above the bolts because I didn't have any large cams. I had a most unpleasant runout up the right side of the crack. Take large cams--4 to 5--or the largest tri-cam. I also feel the final moves to the bolts rate 5.9. Apr 7, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Yeah, my pro list means take 1 each of #3-#5 Camalots (including half sizes). However I've never seen anyone lead it with this many big cams, I've never had anything bigger than a #4 on it.

Are there now bolts at the top out? I remember it used to just turn into a series of ledges covered with gravel, and it wasn't clear where to finish the pitch. Apr 9, 2004
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
Climbed Ragged Edges today. We used up to a pair of #4 Camalots and felt pretty well protected on the second pitch. The only runout, where the crack got a little wider, had good hands. Lots of places for a #2 around the start of pitch two. Nice and shady, the sun went behind the rock at about noon. There are no anchors for the top of the second pitch, I third-classed it up the low angle slabs to a tree and belayed from there with a fair bit of rope drag. The walk-off to the west was quick. I saw more loose holds on this route than I would have liked, but otherwise a fine route on a gorgeous day. Jun 13, 2004
The crux section on pitch one , a beautiful "splitter-like" crack nearing the top of the pitch, takes #2 camalots well. I only had one of two left on my rack by the time I reached the crux ,but I was able to "walk it up" without any problem but ......TO save TWO, #2's ,would be good TO do TOO! Aug 16, 2005
I love this route. it's one of my personal favorites. The rock is so cool! Sep 23, 2006
Greg Gibson
Napa, Ca
Greg Gibson   Napa, Ca
Climbed this last March and used a few c-4's as well as tried out Trango's mid-range Maxcams to supplement my rack. Liked the fact that the Max Cams fit in areas that my C-4's didn't fit as well.

Sweet route with interesting rock Sep 29, 2006
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
Its unfortunate that the anchor bolts are placed where they are. They come right in the middle of the best section of the climb. Ideally, they should have been placed about 10 feet higher at the end of the splitter fist crack and before the ow section. This would have warranted a four-star pitch. Apr 1, 2007
Salt Lake City, Utah
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
We only climbed pitch 1 today because we did not have any large cams with us; heed the advice from an earlier post and have two # 2 camelots saved for the splitter crack crux. Makes it super nice and well protected. Brock/McMillan guidebook says pitch one is 5.7 but our party of four thought the crux was 5.8 for sure. Go climb this today; great pro and as good a pitch at the grade there is. Apr 9, 2007
Mark L  
Climbed pitch one but not two. Pitch one has either very nice hand crack climbing if you want to strictly stay to the crack (although it is probably more like 5.9 then with the overhanging bulge) or huge buckets 2-5' to the right which provide rest spots and holds. You could pretty much face climb most of the thing on buckets but that's not why your here. I led by using the crack (mostly perfect hands here and there) for some parts and grabbing the buckets if I wanted a rest for pro. Then on TR it was great hand crack practice, especailyl the last few moves to the bolts on the top of P1. Jul 13, 2007
Erik Atkinson
Henderson, NV
Erik Atkinson   Henderson, NV
Pitch one was some very nice climbing, without any big moves. As stated above, you will need some big cams, 5's and 6's, if you climb at this difficulty and want to feel totally protected on the second pitch. We only had one #4 C4, and I had to hunt a bit for a spot small enough to fit it. Using 2 cams in all for the second pitch, I ran out it out pretty far, but because the holds are huge and the climbing easy, I felt comfortable with it. I honestly did not find this route to be any more difficult than the book states. I actually felt that it was easier than climbs that are rated lower. Dec 15, 2008
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Fun two pitch climb that requires big cams on the second pitch. Climb up the crack on pitch 1, moving right onto the face about near the tope of the pitch. The crux on Pitch 1 is 1 or 2 moves before the belay station anchors. Stay right, get to the anchor height, then traverse left to the anchors. The crux to the second pitch is the move out from the anchors and onto the face right of the crack. Place a cam or two in the crack before heading out on the face. Runs out near the top, and it's very difficult to hear the climber/belayer at the top when standing at the end of pitch 1. Apr 12, 2009
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
I think the crack near the first anchor might be getting a touch wider- been over there alot lately, and its definitely #3 camalots just below the bolts now and cupped hands to fists. I seem to recall it being #2s and perfect hands a few years back...but maybe my memory is fuzzy.

Anyway, if you're doing the first pitch only, take a #3 camalot for the last few feet, and if you're going to the top, take a #4 and a #5 if youve got it along with a second #3 and dont stop at the bolts- the whole route is 59m long making it an excellent full value pitch. May 9, 2010
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
Jam and Jug Awesomeness. Only did first pitch cause I was scared to runout second pitch wide crack without a #5 or 6. Route was an very exciting 5.7 lead with great hand jams and a lot of jugs to pull on just when you need it. Leading it seemed like 5.7 with a possible 5.8 move if you stay left at the first small overhang. I set up a top rope and climbed it immediately afterward and it suddenly felt like a pumpy 5.5. Gotta love "LIfe on the sharp end". I'll come back with a few larger BDs or a couple big bros for the second pitch. Feb 20, 2012
Climbed this last weekend and what a fun route. Thought the moves were mostly on the grade but even with a #6 as high as I could get it before it gets really wide, there is a pretty solid runout before you get a small piece on the right. Overall felt more like a 5.8 for a slightly stronger climber. Of the 3 classic 5.8's at RR: Lotta Balls, Red Book, and Ragged Edges, I like this one the best. Great hands on pitch 1 with beautiful featured rock.

Dec 4, 2012
Did P1 only because all we had was a #4 camalot. Worth doing. 2 #2s helped. Dec 13, 2012
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
Climbed this today with 1 #2, 2 #3's, 1 #3 Helium Friend, 1 #4, and 1 #6 for my bigger pieces. The second pitch was quite runout with this gear, but there were sections with easy climbing, so it didn't feel that scary. Having doubles in #3, #4, and #5 would be desired for a comfortable climb

The anchor has 3 bolts with 2 rap rings, but the right one is quite worn May 16, 2013
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Gear anchor available at two of the horizontal ledges at topout, finishing right of the crack. This would give the option of not needing to anchor way back at the tree where the crack levels and ends, lessen the possibility of rope flossing into a top cam and getting stuck, and would make a 60 m rope plenty long enough to do the whole climb in one pitch. Sep 30, 2013
Boston, MA
Dennis   Boston, MA
Climbed RE this weekend. Linked the first pitch of Plan F with the second pitch of RE for a nice 200' long pitch. A great way to do it. Had a single rack to #3, probably would have benefited from a #4, but there was at least one slingable horn and other places for pro on the face to the right of the crack on P2. P2 was still runout, but overall a fun route! Nov 12, 2013
Ian Lingley Climbs Ragged Edges (5.8) in Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas

vimeo.com/87501087 Feb 24, 2014
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
P1 felt pretty easy except for the mandatory jamming at the end, which was very secure. I did P2 with 2 4s, a 5 and a 6 C4 and even so felt it was fairly runout near the top. The climbing wasn't difficult but I felt I was pulling on some questionable things when I switched to face climbing out right of the wide crack - about 1/2 to 2/3rds up P2? It stayed 6 C4 or bigger at that point. There were a couple of opportunities for some smaller gear on the right face but not much. Does everyone dodge onto the face (right or left?) or stay in the big crack? Seemed you would either need to walk a 6 or suck it up and chimney a long way above that last piece. Was my 2nd day on sandstone in a while so may not have been completely acclimated to the rock quality yet. Regardless, the harder bit on P2 was well protected with a couple 3s and 4 or two. Mar 19, 2014
mmacelhi   Gunks
didn't really feel the need for all the big gear on P2 but certainly you can use it if you want. the less protected friction on the top is just so easy that you don't miss the gear too much. crux above the anchor required a pretty deep jam if you don't have big hands. did the Plan F start for P1 and found the step right after the little roof to be a bit necky until i fiddled in a small nut down a round my shins. i think i was a bit left perhaps for that plan. that was 5.10 for sure. walk off couldn't be easier May 7, 2014
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
Pitch 1 with Jen. 4th or 5th time I've done this, but not for a few years. Crack at top of P1 is wider. Was #2, now it's #3. Used a second #2 about 15' lower, where in past was #1. And I'm keeping my 5.8+ rating. Anchor has rap ring and quick link on right. Rap ring is very worn, but quick link is good. May 9, 2014
Great climb and worth doing in a single pitch. Only climbing the "first" pitch would be such a shame. Mar 21, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
You could place a #3 just shortly before the bolts.........but it's still #2 below that. There is a currently a well seized #3 in a perfectly good #2 placement.

If you're a crack climber this had some of the funnest jams around. I loved the section up to the anchor, lapped it repeatedly. It might be all #3 now after I got done with it :) Mar 28, 2017
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Led in two pitches. The crux on P 1 requires mandatory jamming, ends at a bolted belay. The 2nd crux is the next 15 ft. After that it calms down significantly, Put your big cam in the wide crack and go. Above, you can certainly do with out the big pro to the top if confident. Great climb to hone your crack skills. super steep. This is a full value 5.8 Mar 29, 2017
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
So, i brought a 4, 4.5, 5, 6, for the second pitch and it still felt way run out. even after bumping up the #6 for quite a ways. Granted the climbing is much easier once you are above the fist crack. However , do not fool yourself, without anything larger than a #4, you are in reality soloing the last 75-100 feet of this climb, over a steep bulge, on holds of questionable integrity. Maybe even in ground fall territory. Honestly i would dump the #5 and take 2- #6, if you can scrounge them up. Apr 13, 2017
T Bloodstone
Minneapolis, MN
T Bloodstone   Minneapolis, MN
This is what I used on Ragged Edges:

Pitch 1 (BD cams):
1 #0.75
2 #1
3 #2
2 #3

Pitch 2:
2 #3
2 #4
2 #5
2 #6

The route is well protected. I wish I had 3 #6 so I could protect the last move before easy climbing to the top. Belay off a tree. Hike down climber's right, once down in the gully, keep right, and get to the base of the rock, clear path to your bags. Oct 25, 2017