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Routes in Cheap Wine Wall

Boston T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dome Driver S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hartford T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kracken, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MD 20/20 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Newark T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ripple S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TJ Swan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 1,566 ft
GPS: 30.508, -98.819 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,033 total · 109/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 15, 2006 with updates from David Liu
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff
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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

The Cheap Wine Wall is the second to last wall along the Backside of Main Dome, and encompasses the area between Newark (left side) and Ripple (far right). It is home to nine quality routes, all between 5.7 and 5.9+. The three climbs on the right side of the wall are single pitch bolted slabs while the lines on the left side tend to be longer (up to two pitches) with mixed protection (bolts and gear). What differentiates the Cheap Wine Wall from the areas to its left and right are the horizontal overlaps and ledges that are found across the wall. The first feature is a large overlap the arcs up and right from Boston to T.J Swan. Bear Can Ally is the ledge that starts above Dome Driver and continues up and right to the next wall. Broadway Ledge is above Bear Can Ally. Trees along all of these features make for good landmarks. Ripple (5.9+) and Dome Driver (5.7) are classics and not to be missed.

Getting There

To reach the Cheap Wine Wall, follow the Echo Canyon trail through the Main Dome – Little Dome saddle, down the draw, and through the boulders at the bottom. There is a well used hiking trail that leads out from the boulders, loops to the right (northeast), and continues around the entire dome. Follow the trail past the marker for the blue climbers’ trail to the yellow trail. Turn right and head towards the wall. When you reach the wall, turn right again and you will be near the starts for Boston and Hartford (look for the notch in the overlap about 30 feet up the wall). Turning left will take you to the start of Mark of the Beast on the Devil’s Slide. You can also reach the Cheap Wine Wall from anywhere along the Backside by simply following the trail at the base of the wall.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cheap Wine Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Boston
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Hartford
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
TJ Swan
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Dome Driver
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
The Kracken
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Newark
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 23
MD 20/20
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 39
Ripple
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boston
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Hartford
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
TJ Swan
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dome Driver
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
The Kracken
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Newark
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
MD 20/20
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Ripple
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cheap Wine Wall »

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