Elevation: 797 ft
GPS: 30.376, -98.12 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 85,316 total · 1,120/month
Shared By: Adam Leedy on Sep 9, 2012 with updates from Jon Mitchell
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Newest climbing area near Austin. Be ware of friable rock, death blocks, and dirt/mud ledges. In spite of this, the climbing is quite great on sharp holds that haven't been polished like everything else around Austin. As the area sees more traffic it will likely clean up into a great climbing area.

Getting There

Go to Reimers Ranch: From Austin, take Highway 71 west.  Turn left at FM 3238 (also known as Hamilton Pool Road).   The entrance to the ranch will be approximately 12 miles down this road on the right. The park entrance gate is 1/2 mile up the road.

After entering the park, follow signs to the North Bank Parking Area which is where the park road ends.

195 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Reimer's Ranch North Shore Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Reimer's Ranch North Shore

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 28
Middle Earth Cave
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Halfling's Leaf
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
My Precious
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
Amazing Legacy of J.R.R. Tolkein
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
A Mortal Life
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 43
Elvin Beauty
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
Monfi
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 41
Carnival
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 39
Deceptive Warmup
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Mines Of Moria
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
Vanilla Sky
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
Imaginary Friend
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 35
Mossotopia
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 33
Katrina
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Pay at the Pump
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Middle Earth Cave Middle Earth Wall
 28
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Halfling's Leaf Middle Earth Wall
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
My Precious Middle Earth Wall
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Amazing Legacy of J.R.R. To… Middle Earth Wall
 40
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
A Mortal Life Middle Earth Wall
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Elvin Beauty Middle Earth Wall
 43
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Monfi Holladay Wall
 18
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Carnival Carnival Wall
 41
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Deceptive Warmup Mossy Wall
 39
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mines Of Moria Middle Earth Wall
 30
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Vanilla Sky Awesome Roof
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Imaginary Friend Insanity Wall
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mossotopia Mossy Wall
 35
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Katrina Mossy Wall
 33
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Pay at the Pump Awesome Roof
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Reimer's Ranch North Shore »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Season outlined above showing a July peak is flat out wrong. Peak seasons for Reimer's are from about October through to around April. Some brave the summer humidity, but it's much quieter during the summer months. Oct 7, 2016
The day use fee for Reimers Ranch in the summer (May 1st through September 30th) has been increased on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from $10 to $15. Even if you have a yearly Travis County Parks pass, you must still pay the extra $5 to enter the park.

Update: "Actually, they just rescinded the rule for annual pass holders and vehicles with an occupant 62 years of age or older. So if you have an annual pass you will not be charged, and if you have an occupant in your vehicle 62 years old or older you will only be charged the typical $10 fee." May 15, 2017
Jake Westfall
Austin, TX
Jake Westfall   Austin, TX
@Jon Between Middle Earth wall and Insanity wall is Huking Buttress. See p. 175 of Hogge 2nd edition. Someone should probably enter those here on MP. May 9, 2018