Return of the Redeye
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | FFA on Lead: John Collins 2016 FFA & Prep: Alan Collins and Sam Hanslits 2016 |
Page Views: | 2,030 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Alan Collins on Jun 17, 2016 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This route got all cleaned, bolted and figure out by both Sam Hanslits and Alan Collins. After all the prep got done, the FA got passed on to John Collins for a fathers day gift.
Start off on a powerful start leaving the ledge passing the first bolt. If the right sequence is found, it seems 5.10, but it is easy to use powerful beta here. Climb to the 3rd bolt before the the climbing begins to get hard again. From the 3rd bolt, expect sustained climbing for the grade till the last bolt is clipped. Getting to the last bolt, you can either go left (more technical) or right (more powerful but less technical). I though going left seems more locker and probably easier, but I bolted it so you can go either way.
Enjoy!!
Start off on a powerful start leaving the ledge passing the first bolt. If the right sequence is found, it seems 5.10, but it is easy to use powerful beta here. Climb to the 3rd bolt before the the climbing begins to get hard again. From the 3rd bolt, expect sustained climbing for the grade till the last bolt is clipped. Getting to the last bolt, you can either go left (more technical) or right (more powerful but less technical). I though going left seems more locker and probably easier, but I bolted it so you can go either way.
Enjoy!!
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