Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: (coming soon)
Page Views: 2,727 total · 17/month
Shared By: rpc on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Toys in the attic follows a nice crack in a deep recess/chimney (capped by a roof) on the west side of The Christian Brothers formation. Start up easy (guano filled) crack on left side of chimney (5.6 at bottom). Going gradually steepens but the rock and crack quality steadily improve. Crack turns into an OW (#4-#4.5 Camalot useful) near the ceiling. At the ceiling, traverse DOWN and left following a finger crack (crux?) for about 20 feet to bolt anchor. Note that the route is scarier to follow than to lead.

Protection

Cams from about 1/2 inch to 5 inch (possibly doubles from 1/2-2 inch range). Few mid-sized nuts.

Photos

another Chad  
5.9
This climb is great and would probably get a lot more traffic if it weren't so scary/dangerous to follow. I didn't feel the need for anything bigger than a #4 C4 although there is a spot where a #5 could be thrown in.


Chad Apr 8, 2012
Todd Eddie
Salt Lake
  5.10a
Todd Eddie   Salt Lake
  5.10a
apparently this route gets little traffic. Down low it's jamming in dead grass/rat nests. Above the appeal gains as the crack goes overhanging. FWIW, I thought the crux fist jams were almost on par with Fisticuffs in J-tree (10b). Maybe if you stem the grade drops, but I jammed both feet in the crack and felt the overhang! Apr 15, 2012
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9+
Definitely won't be climbing this route again. Once was enough. Dirty OW up high (good fist jams), with greasy feet outside the crack. The traverse has some finger-locks, but crap for feet until half-way down to the anchor. Some good edges above the anchor will help you climb down. May 7, 2018