Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Scott Franklin 3/88
Page Views: 10,527 total, 79/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Nov 28, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Redpointed by Scott Franklin in 1987, Scarface was the first 5.14 established by an American. Since then it has been downrated to 5.13d. Regardless of the rating, this route is one of the most beautiful and inspiring lines in America.

This route can be broken into four distinct sections, each a little easier than the last. To start, traverse up and left through a series of large huecos. From here, clip the third bolt with some difficulty, and commit to the first and most intense section of the route, which involves huge lockoffs on one and two-finger pockets. Rest at a set of large pockets, and then move into the second part of the route- a short, insecure right-facing corner, ending with an awkward set of resting holds. After recovering, lean and funk your way up the arete to the redpoint crux, and try not to fall getting you body onto the slab. Although the fourth and final section is only 5.11+, the runouts and tiny holds provide the opportunity to blow it - or at least think about it. Absolutely classic!

Location

Just left of Rude Boys on the Christian Brothers formation.

Protection

Quickdraws and a 70-meter rope.

Photos

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
 
youtu.be/LBoIAEAFiI0 Dec 12, 2011
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
This route is a bit beyond me but having talked to a few people who have been on it it sounds like the .13d/.14a distinction comes down to whether or not you can milk the no-hands rest. My friend Brian is a bit too short to really lock into it so it feels rather hard for him.

I dunno-- I normally take all grades with a grain of salt and never quibble about minor differences. This one certainly seems to go back and forth a lot though. Jun 1, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.14a
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.14a
There's still a great deal of debate about the grade of this route. Its true that during the late 90's the route was generally considered 13d by the climbing media, and other folks who had not actually climbed it. In the Wolverine guidebook that came out 6 months ago, its listed at 14a, and the author says that after much debate, the consensus grade has settled in at 14a.

All the folks I know of (myself included) who have been on it in the last few years are calling it 14a. On rock like this its also important to consider that the difficulty of a route may change over time. Of course, everyone's entitled to their opinions, but to me, it will always be the first 5.14 established by an American.

(edited on 31 May 07) Nov 29, 2006