Type: Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Scott Franklin 3/88
Page Views: 14,818 total · 84/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Nov 28, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details


Redpointed by Scott Franklin in 1987, Scarface was the first 5.14 established by an American. Since then it has been downrated to 5.13d. Regardless of the rating, this route is one of the most beautiful and inspiring lines in America.

This route can be broken into four distinct sections, each a little easier than the last. To start, traverse up and left through a series of large huecos. From here, clip the third bolt with some difficulty, and commit to the first and most intense section of the route, which involves huge lockoffs on one and two-finger pockets. Rest at a set of large pockets, and then move into the second part of the route- a short, insecure right-facing corner, ending with an awkward set of resting holds. After recovering, lean and funk your way up the arete to the redpoint crux, and try not to fall getting you body onto the slab. Although the fourth and final section is only 5.11+, the runouts and tiny holds provide the opportunity to blow it - or at least think about it. Absolutely classic!


Just left of Rude Boys on the Christian Brothers formation.


Quickdraws and a 70-meter rope.