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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Modern Day Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl 1987
Page Views: 1,490 total · 15/month
Shared By: Sinner on Apr 15, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Sustained climbing leads to a surprisingly balancy crux right before reaching the arete. Don't get run off by the slightly high second bolt as the holds are bomber till after the clip.

Location

This line runs directly up the middle of combination blocks, 10ft right of Double Trouble

Protection

bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
The first crux seemed hard for the grade (10c?). Crux of the ledge felt fair for the grade. A little spooky making the moves off the ledge because of the ledge fall potential. Jun 9, 2011
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.11b
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.11b
I was told this route doesn't get much attention. Not sure why. I found it to be one of the funnest low 11s in the park. Although B1 and 2 might look a bit spaced, both crux moves are with a bolt at your chest or just below. Recommended. May 20, 2015
Franck Vee
  5.11b/c
Franck Vee  
  5.11b/c
Interesting moves, but rather short.

I'm really not sure of the grade either. Guidebook says 11a and here as well - but I climbed Panic Attack (11d/12a) right after and found it barely harder that this (Crux for crux)... Also climbed Ring of Fire (11d) and though it was longer, a bit harder at the crux and more sustained, I don't see how that can be 11a if the other grades are anything close to right. I've onsighted multiple 11a at Smith, and this one is very much smith-style... Perhaps I just had a bad climb. At any rate this is solid 11 for sure IMO, I'd give it a b.

For those worried about falling after the 1st clip above the ledge - the fall is actually OK it seems from above, because the ledge peters out just below those bolts, so you wouldn't be falling on the ledge. Not the best fall but I doubt you'd hurt yourself unless unlucky. Jul 15, 2017
Climbed it today and the first bolt was suspect. It looked as if some rock had broke away and you could see park of the shaft behind the hanger. The hanger and shaft also flexed when you pull on the bolt with a draw and your hand. Jan 13, 2018

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