Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl 1987
Page Views: 1,608 total · 15/month
Shared By: Sinner on Apr 15, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Sustained climbing leads to a surprisingly balancy crux right before reaching the arete. Don't get run off by the slightly high second bolt as the holds are bomber till after the clip.

Location

This line runs directly up the middle of combination blocks, 10ft right of Double Trouble

Protection

bolts

Photos

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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
The first crux seemed hard for the grade (10c?). Crux of the ledge felt fair for the grade. A little spooky making the moves off the ledge because of the ledge fall potential. Jun 9, 2011
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.11b
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.11b
I was told this route doesn't get much attention. Not sure why. I found it to be one of the funnest low 11s in the park. Although B1 and 2 might look a bit spaced, both crux moves are with a bolt at your chest or just below. Recommended. May 20, 2015
Franck Vee
  5.11b/c
Franck Vee  
  5.11b/c
Interesting moves, but rather short.

I'm really not sure of the grade either. Guidebook says 11a and here as well - but I climbed Panic Attack (11d/12a) right after and found it barely harder that this (Crux for crux)... Also climbed Ring of Fire (11d) and though it was longer, a bit harder at the crux and more sustained, I don't see how that can be 11a if the other grades are anything close to right. I've onsighted multiple 11a at Smith, and this one is very much smith-style... Perhaps I just had a bad climb. At any rate this is solid 11 for sure IMO, I'd give it a b.

For those worried about falling after the 1st clip above the ledge - the fall is actually OK it seems from above, because the ledge peters out just below those bolts, so you wouldn't be falling on the ledge. Not the best fall but I doubt you'd hurt yourself unless unlucky. Jul 15, 2017
Climbed it today and the first bolt was suspect. It looked as if some rock had broke away and you could see park of the shaft behind the hanger. The hanger and shaft also flexed when you pull on the bolt with a draw and your hand. Jan 13, 2018
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.11b
The first bolt no longer seems suspect. Scramble up to a ledge. Average height people can clip the first bolt from the ledge with a hand in the giant pocket. At 5'4" I can only reach the bottom of a pre-placed draw from here, and in order to set would need to get my feet up and lock off in the pocket. The large pocket is great for matching. The section under the ledge is supposedly 10+ climbing, but it felt like 5.11 climbing to me. Also the 5th bolt is too high for me to get to with my left hand in pocket while at a good stance, whereas a 5'10" climber can just barely reach it. Shorties will need to to get feet up higher and lock off in a more precarious position. After the 5th bolt it's still difficult, but once you reach the ledge, it's bomber to pull up on. Standing on the wide ledge you can catch your breath, then traverse to get to the next bolt. Again, an average-height person can easily reach that bolt from the ledge with a big ball hold to use for balance, but if you're short it requires a stretch. Once you step off the ledge the true crux begins! I wouldn’t say the holds are really greasy, but they are small. Little crimpers. At the last bolt there is a very dependable baseball hold. You can also opt for a gaston on the left, and a left sideways crimper. Get feet up, and move feet over. With a little momentum I could just barely reach the top wall, but while using the sideways crimper, I was at my full wingspan and felt like I was stretched on one of those rack torture devices, until I could remove the pressure by getting my feet up. Edge right foot and stand on it. Then move hand up the top wall to the chains. Maybe this route is more fun for taller people, but the higher I got the worse it felt for me. I think shorties would need to be a solid 5.11 climber to lead this, and swiftly move through placing draws. Oct 29, 2018